OK, next oddness. Swingarm is assembled but not smooth. I pulled the pivot bolt back out and removed it to investigate.

I had a lot of hardware replated (zinc) including the pivot, but I confess I did not prep the pivot very well before I did, thinking the plater would. Nope. There was corrosion and pitting in the area where the pivot collar rides, and there was also a fair amount of damage on the pivot collar (not the bushing) on the chain side. I purchased a set of the oillite bronze bushings, and new pivot collars, powdercoated the swingarm, put it back together.

So I removed the pivot and took it over to the buffer, and polished it in the area of the pivot collars till it was much smoother. Test fit it again, and its now a lot better in either collar, but not good in both. It turns smoothly and freely when it's inserted just so its riding on one or the other of the collars now, but not both. So clearly, the bushings and collars are not perfectly aligned, but it's not detectable by eye.

I haven't had the problem before, these things went back together fine on my other projects, better to be lucky than good sometimes eh?

So who can give me a good education on the best technique for installing these perfectly the first time in the future?

And following the tutorial, who's got a bright idea on how to remediate this one?

TIA for your wisdom as always.

Few parts starting to arrive back from the powder coaters now. Still waiting for the frame. Just need to order a set of swingarm bearings, and steering head bearings and it shouldn't be too far from having the rolling chassis complete.

haha !!!! :laugh:
always happy to help!
they do look good cleaned up.
they always have the period upgrade look to me.
i guess it is because the first one i seen(1987) was on a lowered custom z1r before you really had much wheel options so it just had stock mags and a big ol polished aluminum swingarm that i later learned was a gs arm.the shocks mounting different meant it had a (different from most kaws)cool set of shocks .
yeah you could say that bike made an impression.
especially on a 17 year old kid that had a z1r setting at home and no knowledge or money to transform it :pinch: .
thats alright i still got mine :evil: !
plus three more !!!!!!!!!
i have a gs arm i plan to polish and put on one of the z1r's that i plan to to turn into a period looking road racer with gold wheels and a kawi green paint job :woohoo: ...

leon

Thanks Leon! 9.250 width right on the money for a Kaw swap. The cage bearings are trashed. So bad, I have to cut the shell open inside the swingarm bore to pry them out? Or mill em out some how? Where was the Zerk fitting? Suki engineers?
I'll put one in If when I finish this project. Will be expensive. Hoping to find some industrial cage bearings.
All Balls should have them, their website's not friendly with the search without signing up. Can't find 1 of the 2 catalogs I have lying around.
But these aluminum swing arms clean up nice after after you blast them to take the anodize off! (only 4 hours) cleaned all the welds and seams up 1st also
Can't believe some of the ones on the ebay, people don't even clean the grease off? $100 - $275. Can't believe I missed the 2 that sold dirt cheap 2 weeks ago from a salvage yard. Had Buy It Now! for $20 bucks. But with new bearings and collars. I have stock shocks and all hardware, Cut 2 spacers at .185" for the Kaw conversion. I'd have to get over $200 just to make a little $$?
Oh well, just typin away.

Welcome aboard! Your "new" bike looks really nice!

Here are some tips that you may find helpful:

Many newbies and not so newbies run into or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation or information. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


MANUAL

You really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.


TOOLS

WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

PICTURE 4

PICTURE 5

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.

Good luck with your bike. Ed

Stuff like this happens, perhaps eventually to all. Check your main steering bearings...tire pressures, swingarm bearings, fork springs/oil, and also consider a steering stabilizer. Glad you and the scooter came through relatively unscathed.

I'm trying to bring an '83 KZ550 LTD Shaft up to schedule on its maintenance intervals, and it's about time for the propeller shaft joint lubrication. This is my first shaft-driven bike, and after reading the instructions for this process I realize that I don't really know what I'm doing.



What section of the driveshaft is that first illustration showing?

Will I need to remove the swingarm for this process? If I do, how do I do that? (Edit: Looks like the swingarm needs to be removed :dry: )

While I'm in there, are there any o-rings or gaskets that should be replaced?

Thanks.

weales wrote: Any other ideas..?

Oh, and I'd add the manufacture date shown on the head tube sticker to your list.

And if we want to get really deep into it, there are a few tiny details we could ask about, such as a bevel on the seat brackets that was removed at some point (maybe like frame # 4000?), and the color of the fuse box for the amp meter (white or black). Things like that. Plus the date stamps on all of the parts that have them (rotors, swingarm, controls, etc).

If it is original, and I think it is, your bike has the best red paint I have ever seen on a KZ650-B1. The red KZ650 paint almost immediately fades to a burnt orange color and over time changes to a silvery orange. I saw this on bikes that were only 1 year old. So if that is the original paint it has been kept covered most of its life. If it is a re-paint, the painter took the time to get the striping correct. Very nice. I sincerely hope you do not plan on changing the paint - what you have there is exceedingly rare.

The mufflers are from a different model.

I suspect the 5500 rpm problem is either the points or possibly dirty carbs.

STEP 1 would be to replace the points and condenser with new Kawasaki parts. If you need a tutorial on how to do it just ask as I already have one written up for the 1977 KZ650, and I'll be happy to post it. Replacing the points will give you a good baseline and allow you to clean and lube the advancer. As stated, a sticky advancer will cause problems. The valve clearances on these bikes don't change much at all, so it's worth checking, but highly unlikely to be causing any problems - especially not the 5500 rpm thing.

In the off-chance the problem is dirty carbs they are not terribly dirty or it wouldn't run as well as it does. I cleaned mine without separating them from the holder (I had let them sit with fuel in them for a long time). They cleaned up easily that way and when done they ran like new. Other than gaskets for the carb bowls DO NOT replace any carb parts. The parts in the carbs do not wear out, and aftermarket parts are not as precise as the originals.

To put things in perspective; I have owned my KZ650-C1 since it was new (38 years) and have always done my own maintenance. I have put more than 57,000 miles on it. There's at least one member here that has put 3 times that many miles on his!

Here are some tips that you may find helpful:

Many newbies and not so newbies run into or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation or information. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


MANUAL

You really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.


TOOLS

WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

PICTURE 4

PICTURE 5

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.

Good luck with your bike. Ed

Here's a pic you may find interesting:
jarlef.no/Kawasaki/Images/Z650/p2/Z650B1adJP.jpg

swest wrote: How long has it been sitting? I had a new chain and sprockets for my bike I bought 15 years before I put it back on the road. (engine needed overhaul). The chain was still in the box so I put it on. It developed tight spots right away. The grease had dried out. Rather than ruining my new sprockets, I bought a new chain on eBay. It turned out to be CHINESE and started wiping out my sprockets. I bought a standard DID chain and that's what I'm running now. DID and RK are good chains. The DID came with a peen over master link. It was a PITA and I got it too tight. That was the first one so it didn't matter. The endless chains are meant to be just that. You have to take off the swing arm to install them. That's great as long as everything is new. That's when the road was lousy with Z1/KZ's, but now 92 link chains are not so common. I've been toying with the idea of a swap too. You can find 530 chains anywhere.
For now, it might be wise to buy the endless chain, go through the extra trouble and ride it for 20-30,000 miles.
Steve

The chain is original to the bike, so it's 33 years old and it has been sitting for at least the last 15 years without going anywhere. On first inspection the chain looked okay so I didn't budget for replacing it but once I removed it to clean and grease it I found every single o-ring was split open, and when I started moving it around the o-rings started pulling part-way out and sticking straight out of the chain.

Looks like I am worried about nothing regarding the clip style link. I can get the 630 o-ring chain with a clip type master link for $133. It'll be 98 links but I can shorten it with the tools I have (grinder, nail, vise, patience) so I think I'll go that route. I'll make a point of checking for the clip regularly. Thanks everybody for weighing in on this!