Thanks for all the feet back - been reading a lot about the 1428 in here and also know it need a bigger head to get the full out of it all tough im actually looking for Torque and not high-end HP so for me the 1428 was more for the fun
I also know it needs a better breathing system for the crankcase etc etc
The bike as it is now is to powerfull for copenhagen meaning it gets boring to drive on it due to you can really rev it anywhere thats why i was thinking of the 1428 (to make it completly non rideable but still fun to say byebye to the new plastic bikes
Im gonna use it for events around Copenhagen and going (by truck) around europe to do 200m sprint races...
Everyone around Europe puts on NOS but i want to go bigger but still keep the estetik look of the old Z1 engine/bike

Im gonna upgrade the rear end with a 17" tire and a GSXR750 swingarm - gonna be 4cm longer and hopefully some more grip......
Also thinking about tuning on the ignition - im only using the DynaS... would people recomend the Dyna2000???

The bike brakes better than you thing Plummen - its 4LS system from an old Suzuki GT so in daily its the same as stock brakes and im not in it for the speed so suits me right




This was one of the last runs - we only adjusted the right side 3-4 on the engine and the guy doing it 'found' 11hp from my first set-up on the carbs - he is a Guru in motorcycle tuning, making cams and porting heads etc...



this was the A/F mixture at 1/4 - 1/2 and full throttle - learned so much about engine tuning the 4 hours we where adjusting mine



the day after my surgery - the rotated my foot 20 degrees - old bike injury they put wrongly together the first time

Stocky wrote: Nearing the end of a lengthy restoration Iim having some issues with the stands.
1. The centre stand has new springs but when it's up it just bounces under the swing arm. Should it be tensioned somehow?

The B4 center stand is designed to have a rubber covered pin butt up against a flat spot on the stock exhaust pipes. Without the stock pipes the center stand does wobble around. I kluged up a way to lash down my center stand using a bungee cord and the two stock exhaust hangers.

The PO put a 140 rear tire on the 16" rim, but comparing it to the 120 Shinko it doesn't look a lot wider, I think that's because the rim is too narrow and is pinching the tire, altering the profile. I'm still going through things,, so something else might also be contributing, but to me it feels horrible riding on that tire even at low speeds, the bike just doesn't feel right at the back. I can't wait to get my 18" rear on and the new tires. I just bought a GPz 550 rear brake caliper that in theory will work with my Police Rim and the rotor I have for it - fingers crossed..

Different brands of tire are definitely different in actual size and as stated earlier I think the Shinko 230 is likely a little bigger than the equivalent 712. Based on the Avon tire currently on the front, I think a 110 would be too wide for the rim. Tires also expand in use when hot so we need to be careful of adequate clearance, I recall one of the racers of the 70's (Sheene?) having a big off when a rear tire expanded and seized in the swing arm.

Nearing the end of a lengthy restoration Iim having some issues with the stands.
1. The centre stand has new springs but when it's up it just bounces under the swing arm. Should it be tensioned somehow?
2. Side stand has strange lockout piece with double spring. Is this normal? I can't see it in any parts diagrams to check spring sizes etc.
3.I have lowered the bike front and rear as I'm vertically challenged so wondering if I could leave the centre stand off as it is now higher to lift onto the stand.
4.different subject, but was wondering if the front guard stays are necessary as mine are in poor condition and I think it looks better without them.

Cheers

Ok,Things have been moving along glacially.Ive done bog all for ages.I got really stuck with the rearsets and it pretty much killed any inspiration to move on with other stuff. So this weekend I thought Id get stuck in again. There was a lot of half finished things and stuff that I wasnt happy with and wanted to change. So, forgetting about the rearsets,I consentrated on these things.
First was bolting down the cam cover properly. I tried it a while ago with a torque wrench and the torques in my book must be misprinted or I had the wrench set wrong. I was sure something was going to snap! I decided to back everything off and just do it by hand.Thats off the list now.
Next was to get the coils mounted.No problem there,job done.
Then theres the swing arm.I was not happy with the clearance on the right hand side twixt the swingarm and the frame down tube.There was space but very little and any travel in the shock would have seen the arm wedged up against the frame.

I dropped the wheel out,pulled the shocks off and had at it with the grinder. I calculated a maximum 'swing' upwards of 8cm +- ,this would be the maximum travel of the shock at the most extreme. I managed to shave off just enough for about 10cm travel. Plenty.
Shocks back on,wheel in.Job done.
Next was the exhaust bracket. Im not happy with it and Im sure I can do something better. As I was staring at it,the back brake rearset started laughing at me.
Ive explained the problems earlier in this thread,so I wont go through it again but as it stands the brake pedal clears the pipe,which is what I was after but the rider position is not too good and my knees are almost touching the corners of the head.
So,I had a thought. I took it off,took off the adapter plate that I made and took the grinder to the brake arm. I ground a bit off the bottom,opened it up to get the right position and welded it.





I drilled a small hole and tapped in an M4 bolt as a stopper,to keep the return spring under a bit of tension






and it works! Peg position is good and comfortable .Plenty of space twixt knees and engine and the brake lever has enough swing without hitting on the pipe! Result. Finally,its done and out of the way.
Now I just have to get the other side sorted so the gearshifter dosnt foul on the side stand.

Wobble – there should be none. On my KZ650-C1 I never had any wobble for more than 30,000 miles. Then things changed. I found that when I hit around 90 mph the bike would wobble badly which at that speed was very dangerous. Even though I only hit 90 and above occasionally the thought of the wobble waiting there for me was unnerving.

In trying to nail down the problem I replaced the steering stem bearings with All-Balls tapered roller bearings, installed new wheel bearings, and installed new swingarm bushings. I installed high quality shocks and changed the fork oil. These things tightened the bike up to like-new condition, and somewhat reduced the severity of the wobble, but these items obviously were not the source of the problem because it persisted.

As a last resort I installed new tires. The tires on the bike were Michelin Macadams and they looked fine with no uneven wear. They had been on the bike for several thousand miles and certainly did not cause a wobble when they were new, so it was not a problem with how they were mounted. However, despite their good appearance they most definitely were the source of the wobble. I put on Pirelli Sport Demon tires and the wobble completely disappeared. I have run the bike up to 120 mph and it is as steady as a rock.

I’m glad I replaced the bearings, bushings, etc. as it’s nice to know everything is in tip-top condition, but in my case, without a doubt, tires were the problem. If you replace a bunch of stuff and still have the wobble you may want to replace the tires even if they look good. Ed

531blackbanshee wrote: congrats on the progress!

all the fab,and body work is killer :evil: ,

keep us posted,

leon

Thanks Leon. The majority of the fab is finally done. I have 255 hours of labor into the bike so far. :blink: I have a little more welding to do on the aluminum seat/tail combo and then I can do the bodywork on that, make a seat pad for it and get some primer and paint on it and the tank. I'm just dying to see it as a roller. I have my colors picked out as well as the paint design and I think it's going to look just incredible! :ohmy:

I was planning to have the frame, center stand, swing arm, etc powder coated, but in keeping with the cafe theme of keeping it cheap and doing everything yourself, I might just go with paint instead. We've had things powder coated in the past and generally haven't been all that thrilled. Everything looked great, but if a big enough rock flies up, it's going to put a scar on powder coat just as much as it will on paint. And since it's not a dirt bike, I think powder coat might be overkill anyway. I'd rather put that part of the budget into performance upgrades like the Boyer Bransden ignition system, stainless shorty mufflers, etc.

Anyway, stay tuned. Much more to come!

It seems to hold glue well. I was told not to repair it yet so 100 more miles with a mangled box. Gotcha on the damage. I'm going to give her a bath and polish. I'll be looking at the frame, swing arm etc. At least it's cooler so I can do this.
I noted how calm I was during and after. After the wreck in 86, I don't frighten like before. I had a big biker guy come to my house to try and intimidate me. I calmly told him he wasn't scaring me, HE WAS PISSING ME OFF and I can pop caps just as well as the next guy. Conditioning I guess.
I found some Vetter bags on eBay. Most want as much if not more for shipping. I sold an original worm drive Skil saw on eBay. Not only was it heavy but it was a odd size. $41 to ship to NJ. Nothing that matches mine though. Other vintage bags look UGLY and are smaller. I think I'll print out a couple of those ads and hand them to the adjuster if nothing else than to show the value of vintage stuff. We'll see. :whistle:
Steve.

Progressive springs up front. (sold under the same name) Replace the rear shocks. I bought some progressive rear shocks for a good price. (not a track bike) lube the swing arm pivot. If it's worn out, you'll know right away. Clean out the gunk in the forks. (you will while doing seals) Ride it and see if anything else is needed. I've taken my bike up and down logging roads and trails. I've furrowed my way through soft sand and held my own in the twisties. They do handle well if taken care of.
Now if you want a canyon carver, get yourself a modern crotch rocket. :whistle:
You can keep'em in my book. :lol:
Steve

I put progressive shocks on the back of my 650 and have been very happy with them. Still run stock springs up front.

Make sure you're swing arm bearings are still tight and you should also put tapered bearings in the steering stem of you haven't already. Also make sure your wheel bearing are good and your wheels are balanced properly. It all contributes to the ride quality and "feel" of the motorcycle.