Search Results (Searched for: gs swing arm)
Replied by 73z1 on topic 1973 Kawasaki Z1 hits record $50,000 at Mecum
29 Jan 2023 07:07 - 29 Jan 2023 07:08
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> We're curious about the ser #'s and mfgr. dates of those Z1's..
Z1F07979 sold for $55k built in February 1973 (crazy price, does not reflect real market)
Z1F17142 sold for $35k built in June 1973
Highlights of Z1F07979
Z1F07979 sold for $55k built in February 1973 (crazy price, does not reflect real market)
Z1F17142 sold for $35k built in June 1973
Highlights of Z1F07979
- Comprehensive mechanical and cosmetic restoration with attention to original specifications
- Original frame with matching number
- In running condition
- Engine has been professionally rebuilt, rebored with the cylinder and head and carburetors also rebuilt
- New gaskets and seals throughout
- Professionally tuned by a licensed mechanic
- Engine was ceramic coated Black
- New fuel tank, side covers and tail section from Doremi, painted in Japan
- New front and rear wheel rims from the UK, new front and rear tires and tubes, spokes, reflectors, wheel bearings, fork oil, fork tubes, front fender, fork ears and trim with chrome hardware
- Gauges professionally rebuilt by Z-Resto
- New turn signals front and rear, grips, dash, horn, ignition and tapered steering head bearings
- New front and rear brake parts, handlebars and switches, mirrors and wiring harness, Dyna S ignition, Dyna coils and Dyna plug wires
- New badges, foot pegs, kick start arm, shift lever, swing arm roller bearings, and air box
- New exhaust with hardware from Z1 Parts
- New seat, rear fender, chain and sprockets, chain guard and cables
- Powdercoated frame, swing arm, front hub, side stand, center stand, triple trees, head light bucket, gauge cones, dash bracket and taillight bracket
- Re-chromed rear brake lever and grab bar
- Polished aluminum parts including the front fork legs, rear hub, valve cover and engine side covers
- Frame number Z1F-07979
- Engine number Z1E-08296
Replied by Haggis61 on topic Zephyr 550 swingarm on 81 GPZ550
24 Jan 2023 14:15
Hi, I’m interested in doing this same swap. Did it work out ok? I’m looking for some info on the things I’ll need to consider. Many thanks
To re-launch BOTM we are starting with a heavily modified 650/1170 from Lee (Bevelhead) in the UK. The intention is to use BOTM to showcase the passion and hard work of our members in their quest to preserve KHI’s finest from the “glory days”. With this in mind I am looking to feature a mix of modified/stock/restored and survivor bikes of the era, if it “has a story” drop me a line. I don’t intend this to be a haven only for mega buck show winners (although they are also welcome) I want BOTM to inspire other members around the world to get out in the garage and smother their rides in love and attention.
The project started with a badly 'bobbed' 1978 Z650 frame, GPz1100B1 engine cases, Z1000 tank, and not much else. The project belonged to a good friend, who'd already cut the rear part of the frame to widen it to accommodate a wider modern rear wheel and tyre, without the need for spacers on the shock top mount. The frame has now been braced to cope with the extra power and now uses a 20mm swingarm spindle.<br />Since the frame had been widened, a standard seat and ducktail would not fit, therefore a new seat base had to be made in fibreglass and the tail piece widened. The seat then went to specialist upholsterer who did a good job, except he'd got front and back mixed up!! the assumption was made (don’t ever do that) that it was obvious which was the front and which the back, but apparently not.<br /> Bodywork is early Z1, but the tank is from a Z1000. Paint is similar to OE, but with a few changes. For example the upper tank stripe is dark mica blue, not black, to match the blue of the front callipers. The plan originally was to fit a cockpit fairing, but the BMW R90S fairing that was purchased didn't look quite right, so wasn't used. Lee has a “Z900RS café” fairing on his Z1000A1 build which would look much better on the 1170.. perhaps something for the future.<br />The rear sets were made long before the engine was ready, and turned out to be too low, so Lee had to make new mounts to raise the pegs and clear the exhaust. The latter is a Delkevic, whose 4 into 1 collector had to be cut and widened to clear the now wider back end of the bike. Since it had to be cut, Lee also altered the silencer to a jauntier angle.<br />The front end consists of forks and brakes from a 2001 Yamaha R6, in one off billet yokes. The back end uses ZRX 1200 swing arm, Brembo rear calliper on a one-off mount, along with K-Tech shocks built for the bike by the factory. Wheels are also one off split rims, made for Lee’s old drag bike by a friend (the one who sold Lee the project).<br />The engine was taken out to 1170 cc using Wossner forged pistons, the crank has been balanced and welded, while carbs are Mikuni RS34s. Clutch and points cover are home made, as are the rear sets.. levers pivot on roller bearings, hydraulic clutch conversion, and an gearbox output sprocket outrigger. The latter has been causing Lee problems as it has an oil leak, but then he had to use a “home-made” gasket, and that could be the problem.. Lee is still working on that. That's why in some pics the chain has been removed, as Lee was working on the outrigger inner plate at the time.<br />Wiring is done by Lee using a “Moto-Gadget M-Unit” which helps simplify the wiring, along with their matching switchgear. Ignition is Dyna S with Dyna coils. It has an electronic Daytona Velona combined tacho/speedo gauge. <br />Brake and clutch master cylinders are by a UK company HEL, as are the brake lines.<br /><br />Once the outrigger oil leak is fixed and the engine is run in, Lee will take it to a dyno and have the carbs dialled in, but it was snowing at the time of writing, so that will have to wait until the spring.<br />The build was without doubt the most frustrating Lee has done, as there were countless problems, while Covid lockdown didn't help. The engine case was found to be cracked, after they had been ceramically coated at great expense. Thankfully they were repairable.<br />
The project started with a badly 'bobbed' 1978 Z650 frame, GPz1100B1 engine cases, Z1000 tank, and not much else. The project belonged to a good friend, who'd already cut the rear part of the frame to widen it to accommodate a wider modern rear wheel and tyre, without the need for spacers on the shock top mount. The frame has now been braced to cope with the extra power and now uses a 20mm swingarm spindle.<br />Since the frame had been widened, a standard seat and ducktail would not fit, therefore a new seat base had to be made in fibreglass and the tail piece widened. The seat then went to specialist upholsterer who did a good job, except he'd got front and back mixed up!! the assumption was made (don’t ever do that) that it was obvious which was the front and which the back, but apparently not.<br /> Bodywork is early Z1, but the tank is from a Z1000. Paint is similar to OE, but with a few changes. For example the upper tank stripe is dark mica blue, not black, to match the blue of the front callipers. The plan originally was to fit a cockpit fairing, but the BMW R90S fairing that was purchased didn't look quite right, so wasn't used. Lee has a “Z900RS café” fairing on his Z1000A1 build which would look much better on the 1170.. perhaps something for the future.<br />The rear sets were made long before the engine was ready, and turned out to be too low, so Lee had to make new mounts to raise the pegs and clear the exhaust. The latter is a Delkevic, whose 4 into 1 collector had to be cut and widened to clear the now wider back end of the bike. Since it had to be cut, Lee also altered the silencer to a jauntier angle.<br />The front end consists of forks and brakes from a 2001 Yamaha R6, in one off billet yokes. The back end uses ZRX 1200 swing arm, Brembo rear calliper on a one-off mount, along with K-Tech shocks built for the bike by the factory. Wheels are also one off split rims, made for Lee’s old drag bike by a friend (the one who sold Lee the project).<br />The engine was taken out to 1170 cc using Wossner forged pistons, the crank has been balanced and welded, while carbs are Mikuni RS34s. Clutch and points cover are home made, as are the rear sets.. levers pivot on roller bearings, hydraulic clutch conversion, and an gearbox output sprocket outrigger. The latter has been causing Lee problems as it has an oil leak, but then he had to use a “home-made” gasket, and that could be the problem.. Lee is still working on that. That's why in some pics the chain has been removed, as Lee was working on the outrigger inner plate at the time.<br />Wiring is done by Lee using a “Moto-Gadget M-Unit” which helps simplify the wiring, along with their matching switchgear. Ignition is Dyna S with Dyna coils. It has an electronic Daytona Velona combined tacho/speedo gauge. <br />Brake and clutch master cylinders are by a UK company HEL, as are the brake lines.<br /><br />Once the outrigger oil leak is fixed and the engine is run in, Lee will take it to a dyno and have the carbs dialled in, but it was snowing at the time of writing, so that will have to wait until the spring.<br />The build was without doubt the most frustrating Lee has done, as there were countless problems, while Covid lockdown didn't help. The engine case was found to be cracked, after they had been ceramically coated at great expense. Thankfully they were repairable.<br />
Hi, I know I've received a lot of help from this forum already and I don't want to put anyone out. However, now that my project is structurally all together (minus electrics, brakes, lights etc.) I would like to know the correct torque settings for the bolts and nuts attaching engine to frame. Also, the swinging arm torque setting. Always best to do it properly rather than just go by "tight plus threadlock". I have the Kawasaki service manual and the Haynes. However, the torque settings are not specified. I tend to under-torque nuts and bolts, in the fear of stripping them out, when I don't have the correct torque tension to hand. Where should I look? Thanks
Replied by Scirocco on topic 1981 GPz550. Longer kickstand?
13 Dec 2022 10:09
Not the shocks are longer but the upper shock mount was re-located lowered than stock to lift tail.
Maybe the bike get a single to dual shock conversion due to the Suzuki GS 1000 or cal fab aluminum swingarm.
Maybe the bike get a single to dual shock conversion due to the Suzuki GS 1000 or cal fab aluminum swingarm.
Replied by Jonas_Z1000j on topic Swing arm radial play, shaft diameter KZ1000
24 Nov 2022 11:17
Well I took Wookie advice and bought the new one, and im happy I did. It measures around 15,92 - 15,95. I installed it right away with new grease on the bearings (just 3-4 years old). What a difference! completely snug now, swingarm feels so good I want to take it to the track
but... unfortunately its snowing and will do so for at least 4 months
But this is wierd, the old one measured between the sleeves:
It looks identical, same head etc.
But this is wierd, the old one measured between the sleeves:
It looks identical, same head etc.
Replied by Kelly E on topic Swing arm radial play, shaft diameter KZ1000
20 Nov 2022 17:57
I wouldn't blast any of the internal swingarm parts. The sleeve has been hardened where the needle bearings ride. The hardened layer is very thin and you can blast it off and the pieces will wear quickly. I soak rusty swingarm bolts and sleeves in EvapoRust then inspect the parts for damage. Many times it is just surface rust and the parts are fine.
Replied by Ojisan rider on topic Swing arm radial play, shaft diameter KZ1000
20 Nov 2022 17:37
Mine is 750, but when I removed my swingarm shaft, it looked OK but after sandblasting (I have a small blasting cabinet), it showed up with lots of rust pit. Guess it was covered with rust and grease that I couldn't see with just wiping it down.
Went online and found several shafts on evilbay and just bought one that looked the best. Blasted and now it look and work fine. Don't forget to replace the bearings and the seals at both end. Mine didn't come with one, so I also added a grease nipple. For my bike, sleeve were harder to find than the shaft.
Went online and found several shafts on evilbay and just bought one that looked the best. Blasted and now it look and work fine. Don't forget to replace the bearings and the seals at both end. Mine didn't come with one, so I also added a grease nipple. For my bike, sleeve were harder to find than the shaft.
Replied by Jonas_Z1000j on topic Swing arm radial play, shaft diameter KZ1000
16 Nov 2022 12:05
Thanks, I will pull it tomorrow and take more measurements!
Is there a source for new ones, either NOS or replacements?
The bearings where basically stuck when I bought the bike, maybe that caused the severe wear.
Is there a source for new ones, either NOS or replacements?
The bearings where basically stuck when I bought the bike, maybe that caused the severe wear.
Swing arm radial play, shaft diameter KZ1000 was created by Jonas_Z1000j
16 Nov 2022 10:59
Hi!
I have just started to assemble my KZ1000j -82 after work on the engine and a powder coat of the frame. A couple of years back, I changed the swing arm bearings and sleeves. I noticed now when I put the swing back on that it has a considerable radial play between the shaft and the sleeve. I pulled out the shaft just a bit and took a couple of measurements all between 14,3-14,5 mm. I google now that it should be 16 mm!? I read in the service manual that the service limit of the shaft is 0,7 mm.
Is 16,0 mm the correct shaft diameter?
thanks,
I have just started to assemble my KZ1000j -82 after work on the engine and a powder coat of the frame. A couple of years back, I changed the swing arm bearings and sleeves. I noticed now when I put the swing back on that it has a considerable radial play between the shaft and the sleeve. I pulled out the shaft just a bit and took a couple of measurements all between 14,3-14,5 mm. I google now that it should be 16 mm!? I read in the service manual that the service limit of the shaft is 0,7 mm.
Is 16,0 mm the correct shaft diameter?
thanks,
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