Tyrell Corp wrote: Do it, then carefully road test it...you'll might enjoy the look and feel of a raised rear end and notice a faster turn in on steering, you may also get a little less stable at illegal speeds. It is really about how you like the stance of the bike and how it fits you.

I reversed mine onto a plank of wood 1 inch thick and so on... you can notice the slight difference in weight distribution just sitting on it and turning the bars.

Technical issues are chain clearance - not usually an issue unless the frame is braced - I goofed up here on mine.

There are also some chain run / angle of chain from horizontal across the axle/SA pivot engineering considerations, but on both my 550 and 750 I have done it with good results. I am 6"4 so seat height isn't an issue...also they look and steer so much cooler in a slightly hunched over stance. imo

if you are determined to lift it the back but keep the frame geometry closer to factory the you could lift the forks and dump the clip ons with a handler bar coversion for another 15mm or soi...

Thank you Tyrell, this type of info combined with Leon's was spot on for what I was looking for, thank you!! In terms of high speed twitchy-ness I am less concerned about that as this bike will never see a track and rarely see anything in the triple digits. I feel it would be the height of foolishness for me to take a 30 year old bike to those speeds consistently without having done a full frame up rest and knowing that every single nut and bolt and component is solid since I don't want some 30 year old component or piece to fail at the absolute worst time and turn me into human jello splattered over the pavement. In rare cases sure I will see those speeds but that is the exception not the rule. The seat height is the only thing I am marginally concerned about and that is because plain and simple I am short and the shrimp of my family. I am 5'9.5" on my tallest tippy toe day, with my SIDI Vertigo boots on I crack 5'10" at least. Currently my feet sit flat on the ground when I am on the bike, so long as after flipping the eccentrics I can still get my feet flat or at least darned close to it I should have any issues but testing it out will be the difference.

As for the physical task of flipping them, is it truly just as straightforward as loosening the pinch bolts on each side and sticking a steel rod into one of the eccentric openings and rotating it 180* from where they are currently at, then testing and adjust chain tension and deflection again?

Thanks,
Brett

A couple years back, I junked the air-ride shocks for a set of Progressive's, after finding a barely used set (with springs) while scouting ebay. Forty bucks later...
I now had 12.5" (one inch shorter) shocks on my bike, and could finally set my feet flat on the ground.
The immediate effect was dramatic, and the change has significantly improved my riding confidence. The bike feels more comfortable and responsive, like a whole new ride.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWhat about these? Do they replace the needle bearings?Would still need a new sleeve right?Looks like it would replace the seal?Seems odd that it fits the old smokes and the GPz/KZ's :dry:

The “endless loop” means that the chain has been riveted together and that in order to get a new endless-loop on you need to take the swing arm off. The old chain you can just as well just grind off.

Taking the swing arm off is probably not a bad idea, as the swing arm bearings and the pivot bolt can need a little bit of CLT and grease, so it don’t rust and get seized.

Unfortunately the air-cooled Gpz750 83-89 (ZX750A1-A5) came with an original 5~6mm offset front sprocket and they were only manufactured in the original 15 tooth configuration.

That sprocket can still be had at JT Sprockets for instance,
www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1149

Front: JTF514 15 tooth, 630 chain with the 13, 25 filament.
Rear: JTR501 38 tooth.

You can play around with your rear sprocket, but up front you are stuck, if you don’t buy the more exclusive custom made offset sprockets, but I don’t think it’s worth it, unless you are going for a fatter rear wheel.

So your options are to go up at the rear getting higher top speed or go down and gain acceleration.

/A

One thing I'm not liking is the rear swingarm how far the top of the duel shocks stick out from frame .when aligned with the arm.
Thinking of staying the the gsxr mono shock. I like that look much better.
Clean

Yeah that might work Ed but not right now.This will have to wait a bit as I have things that need to get done here first.

Well that idea hit the bin,the piece I thought was the right size is oversize both ways :S .I have bushings from the GS750 arms to,the right ID but the walls look to be 1mm bigger :dry: I got a guy who could weld it up at work but nobody I know has a lathe.Well at least not in the Victoria area

Since the tube is contacting directly with the needle bearings it's important that it be smooth, round, and hard. You can weld the surface and grind to assure roundness, but it will be soft, not hard, thereafter.

YOu may want tocheck is your swing arms carries 2 or 4 bearings. Mine has 4 (2 each side).

No the original sleeve has been grooved by the destroyed needle bearings so it's not a usable piece looks like the kit from England is my only option :dry: