If Mothers is the only compound you use, you'll need to sand alot more with the higher number grits, for sure. Still, 1500 wet followed by 1500 dry after the 1000 will usually do it if you use the gritty compounds like 3m. I left that out, sorry. Even 3m super duty won't cut orange peel, without a buffer ( even then you need most of it sanded out first), and the maguiers is very low abrasive...almost a polish.
Actually, with the gunmetal grey you used, 3 coats of just the color will buff to a high gloss, too. There is no clear on my bike, and that's the case. Very reflective. I can see the pupils of my eyes from 5 feet, even with my glasses on...mirror finish.
Using at least at least 3 coats of clear, or final paint color is important for the process I gave you above. With lacquer, if your surface prep was good, and your spray technique is solid, you don't need to sand between the clearcoats. They melt together anyway. I have sprayed three coats of lacquer clear straight out of a can that looked better than the buffed clearcoat on my fleetwood. Just waited for the coats to dry a few minutes. It's all in the surface prep. I try to keep it at 3 coats, one of which you will likely remove by sanding and the next one is buffed. Thick paint can chip a little more easily with the rattle can paints. Using Maquiers (or mothers) allows you to buff tiny scratches out, since they're often in the wax, anyway. Be careful for the first month before you get a good protective coat of wax on it. That's the hardest part for me, because i ride alot.
If you do all that, and finish with 1500 dry before you buff and polish, you'll be able to pick your teeth from 6 feet away in the reflection. Remember, easy on the edges, especially if you machine buff! Here's a freshly painted tailpiece straight from the can. Three coats of clear over universal gloss black wetsanded with 400 grit before the clear. Painted outside on a calm 75 degree day.
Post edited by: ronboskz650sr, at: 2005/11/11 10:04