TOPIC:

Installed new All Balls bearings in front and rear hub, bearings in front hub and sprocket carrier spins easy, rear hub bearings seem tight, did I screw something up?

I can't say for sure what's going on with your bike, but I do know that the wheel bearing bore in the wheel is deeper than necessary.  If you drive in the bearings until they hit the shoulder in the bore, they will be too deep, and the bearings will bind.

Do you install all spacer at the right position.
Don´t miss the spacer between the sprocket hub and wheel hub inner bearing races!

I typically like to have the bearings just touching the spacer so you can move the spacer up and down with your fingers with a little force. Then the bearings should spin freely with your thumb. If there is resistance and you cannot spin the bearings with your thumb then you installed the bearing to spacer too tight. I believe the right bearing is seated and the left is tapped to the spacer. Double check that. So if you think it is to tight try to push the spacer to the side and gently tap the left bearing and see if you can move it a few thou. Then recheck. You should be able to tap the bearing out just a few thou without any damage the the bearing.

Thanks guys will check it out I’m sure I set it too deep.

By Nessism:  I can't say for sure what's going on with your bike, but I do know that the wheel bearing bore in the wheel is deeper than necessary.  If you drive in the bearings until they hit the shoulder in the bore, they will be too deep, and the bearings will bind.

Are you saying you don't drive the bearings in all the way?  It seems like the bearing could then shift within the well. ???
I drove mine in all the way w no problems. but it's a 1981 KZ650-CSR.

martin_csr wrote:

By Nessism:  I can't say for sure what's going on with your bike, but I do know that the wheel bearing bore in the wheel is deeper than necessary.  If you drive in the bearings until they hit the shoulder in the bore, they will be too deep, and the bearings will bind.

Are you saying you don't drive the bearings in all the way?  It seems like the bearing could then shift within the well. ???
I drove mine in all the way w no problems. but it's a 1981 KZ650-CSR.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. For example, with my 750E, I drove the first bearing in until it hit the shoulder in the wheel.  I then flipped over the wheel, dropped in the spacer, then started driving in the 2nd bearing.  Problem was, I couldn't drive in the 2nd bearing deep enough to allow installation of the C-clip, because the spacer was already binding up the bearing inner races.

To fix the wheel, I had to buy a new set of bearings, but this time, when installing the first bearing, I only drove it in enough to get the c-clip in.  The wheel was then flipped over, and this time the 2nd bearing was able to go in without binding up, and the C-clip had enough room for install.

Nessism wrote:

martin_csr wrote:

By Nessism:  I can't say for sure what's going on with your bike, but I do know that the wheel bearing bore in the wheel is deeper than necessary.  If you drive in the bearings until they hit the shoulder in the bore, they will be too deep, and the bearings will bind.

Are you saying you don't drive the bearings in all the way?  It seems like the bearing could then shift within the well. ???
I drove mine in all the way w no problems. but it's a 1981 KZ650-CSR.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. For example, with my 750E, I drove the first bearing in until it hit the shoulder in the wheel.  I then flipped over the wheel, dropped in the spacer, then started driving in the 2nd bearing.  Problem was, however, I couldn't drive in the 2nd bearing deep enough to allow installation of the C-clip, because the spacer was already binding up the bearing inner races.

To fix the wheel, I had to buy a new set of bearings, but this time, when installing the first bearing, I only drove it in enough to get the c-clip in.  The wheel was then flipped over, and this time the 2nd bearing was able to go in without binding up, and the C-clip had enough room for install.

There is a sequence to installing the bearing and if you install the wrong one first you will end up like nessism. Normally one of the bearings is seated then the other side is taped in to just touching the spacer
 

Nessism wrote:

martin_csr wrote:

By Nessism:  I can't say for sure what's going on with your bike, but I do know that the wheel bearing bore in the wheel is deeper than necessary.  If you drive in the bearings until they hit the shoulder in the bore, they will be too deep, and the bearings will bind.

Are you saying you don't drive the bearings in all the way?  It seems like the bearing could then shift within the well. ???
I drove mine in all the way w no problems. but it's a 1981 KZ650-CSR.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. For example, with my 750E, I drove the first bearing in until it hit the shoulder in the wheel.  I then flipped over the wheel, dropped in the spacer, then started driving in the 2nd bearing.  Problem was, however, I couldn't drive in the 2nd bearing deep enough to allow installation of the C-clip, because the spacer was already binding up the bearing inner races.

To fix the wheel, I had to buy a new set of bearings, but this time, when installing the first bearing, I only drove it in enough to get the c-clip in.  The wheel was then flipped over, and this time the 2nd bearing was able to go in without binding up, and the C-clip had enough room for install.

I went through the same thing a few times over the years. One time it made the bearing wear out early. I found out the All Balls are MADE IN CHINA.

 I suspect they're not the same as OEM. I'll check this afternoon. I have sets of both. I now drive in the one until I can install the clip then install the spacer and bearing on the other side until the spacer is snug not tight. The wheel bearings shouldn't "float" if the races fight tight. 
Steve

 

I believe you will find that the side with the clip will be the side where the bearing will be seated at the base. This bearing will go in first. All balls are made in China however they do offer a set which are made in USA ,and other locations at a premium price. Never had any issues with the std sets. Check out there site and you will see the premium one listed.

By Nessism:  Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying... 

Thanks. It's been quite a while since doing the wheels. On my motorcycle I do remember that you had to install one side first then the spacer because the spacer only went in one way and if you installed the wrong bearing first, you'd have to drive it out & start over.  At the time someone else had done this, so I was careful not to make that booboo. But I'm quite certain that I drove each bearing all the way home, but the 650-CSR could be different. The csr Fr & Rr spacers have press fit collars which are why they only go in one way.

If you have a heat gun to heat the cavity, it will be easier to fit the bearing.