TOPIC:

How does one go about raking the front end of their motorcycle. Do they have to take it down to the bare frame and who does it? I have a 1978 kz1000A

Post edited by: kswilliams333, at: 2005/10/11 09:06

I'm sure it all depends on what bike you have. More info on bike model would help.

I would like to rake my 85 KZ1000P a bit also. Can I still use my forks or will I have to get longer ones?

Anyone have pictures of KZ1000's with racked front ends?
What degree would work best?

you dont have to take it all the way down to the bare frame. its easier with the front end off the bike. tank and wires would need to be out of the way. most people rake it aany were from 5 to 10 degrees. they just cut the top part of the neck and pull it back a couple of degreese using a little heat then weld it back up. it pushes the front end out a some. it will lower your bike but you dont have to change forks. gives the bike a lower look and handles better at high speeds. sometimes the problem comes in with the header. you might have to find another one that works if the bike is to low to the ground ( like a sidewinder). it all depends on what bike, how much rake, and what header.
custom bike shops or a machine shop with a very good welder can do it. but dont just get any average joe to do it. it has to be straight and true. a place here called hudsons machine shop has a jig set up for rake bikes. the have don it for years. it will run you a hundred and fifty bucks but they do a great job.

Hey Rattler, in what part of the country can Hudson's be found? I wouldn't mind raking the MKII if I can find the right person to do it.
Thanks

It is not as simple as a cutting torch and welding only either though - you should measure your trail before final welding- and it doesn't take too much rake to force you to run a sidewinder set of pipes- which is fine if you want a drag only bike- won't corner worth a crap.

The procedure you use depends on your reasons for raking.

If you swapped out the forks for longer ones, and you have to correct the rake and trail, you might want to change the set-up by adding a few inches to the downtubes. Essentially, it amounts to standing the bike up perfectly straight, placing 4x4" blocks to keep the engine from dropping too far or fast, just to a level position, then cutting the downtubes and changing the rake by bending the backbone (thereby giving the bike that upswept chopper look, too)...bend the downtubes so they're aligned end to end, and using turned-down slugs and hollow tubing, fill the gaps and weld'em up (don't use solid slugs end to end or you'll lose the flex in the tubes).

If you just want to kick out the front end a bit, make a small "V" wedge cut behind the neck, about halfway through the tube, and, using your own weight and that of a large friend or two, force it closed (you might need to make a slice cut on the underside of the backbone), and weld it up.

Do you have to remove anything and everything from the frame? No, only as much as you need to weld cleanly and safely. The less stuff in the way, the less stuff gets burned.

Remember, your life will depend on these welds, so if you're not sure of your own talents, get a welder buddy to do it (bring beer when you ask).

Post edited by: DanVVArider, at: 2005/10/11 02:48

Is there a setup with bearings that would rake the triple trees out. I mean for a small rake not really anything crazy.

I had mine raked 5* over by a fella here in Pa.I like it and don't have any problems with the handeling.

man put some chrome and a couple of black pieces on that kaw pleeeeeeeease!!!!(for the guy with the red onred on red on top of more red kaw from alaska)

Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/11/18 00:09

do us all a favor and take it to a shop that does motorcycle frames ,not the local blacksmith with the torch and 4x4.you need to get this bike srtapped down and leveled before you can measure or cut anything the top tube and the two sidetubes under the tank get cut and that big gusset from the downtubes to the steeringhead gets sliced to allow the downtubes to be pulled back as they are heated ,you need to keep a protractor on the steering head and a level on frame to make sure things are straight be careful heating the lower tubes or they will kink when they pull back.be careful not to get the frame too hot while welding as to warp it .if you keep it down to about 2-3 degrees you should still be able to muscle your way around city streets,if go much more you might want to consider truck driver training school because thats how it will steer,if you just want to hold the front end down try a gs1100e swingarm theyre 2"over and can be stretched to 3" with a longer chain,thats a lot easier and you can change it back easy.Hope this helps,good luck