TOPIC:

Having a hard time trying to figure out what would be needed for a swing arm upgrade on my KZ900LTD. First of all, after having taken this swing arm apartlast year, I'm missing some parts. Missing both sleeves. And both bushings are shot. Also missing the end caps and o-rings. So what's the best course of action? Get a swing arm kit from Z1 or PartsNMore? Excellent Idea! It seems like the kits come with 4 needle bearings. (is that two on each side?) Do I still need to buy the sleeves I am missing? And do I still need to use the original end-caps and o-rings? (the ones that I'm missing? ) If so, I probably should buy them. By the way I did ask Jeff at Z1. He was very helpful by kindly sending me the written instructions - but the instructions were lacking in some areas. Has anyone used one of these kits and can help clear some of my confusion? Thanks!

For the Z1 & KZ900 the kit comprises 4 needle roller bearings, a sleeve/insert, 2 end-caps and two spacer washers.

What's needed from the old setup is the swingarm, the swingarm pivot bolt and the nut. The rest is removed and no longer needed.

The toughest part is driving the old bushings out - they can be a pain in the butt - you need a long drift and some pounding to remove them. Gradually working around the bushing from the inside to evenly push each of them out. Be prepared to sweat...

Once you've removed the bushings, you insert 2 needle roller bearings in place of each one - so two on each side. Then insert the sleeve/insert inside the bearings and push it all the way through all 4 bearings.

Place the 2 end-caps on the swing arm and position it in place to check clearance. The kit comes with 2 spacers - sometimes you need one on each side, sometimes only one. Assuming both are needed, they sit outside the end-caps. With the spacers and end-caps in place, slide the swingarm pivot bolt through the frame and swingarm and all the way through the swingarm, secure with nut. Tighten nut and while tightening it, check the swingarm still pivots freely - stop when you just start to feel the swingarm binding a little.

Reassemble the rest of the rear end and take the bike for a ride.

It's best to recheck the tightness of the nut just as a precaution.

Thank You Jeff! Great info. This will make my work a little easier knowing these additional details.

Skip, I hope this clears up the issues with your swingarm. I have installed a couple of the tapered roller bearing kits. I also think that I heated (with torch) one of the swingarms and sprayed in PB Blaster and let it sit after heating. I then reheated and beat the old bushings out fairly easily with a drift.

I buy long aluminum rods; about 5/8" diameter from home improvement places. I leave them about 2" long and use a BIG HEAVY HAMMER and use the hammer's weight with fairly small taps moving around the permimeter of the bushing (so it doesn't bind) to tap it out.

It is also easier if you have a good bench vise with rubber pads to grip the swingarm securely.

Jeff.Saunders wrote:

The toughest part is driving the old bushings out - they can be a pain in the butt - you need a long drift and some pounding to remove them. Gradually working around the bushing from the inside to evenly push each of them out. Be prepared to sweat...

Get a socket that fits in through the old bushing. Put it in one end with an old extension. Stuff an old rag in the other end. The rag takes up the difference in the diameters between the socket and the bushing and it is easier to pound out with a hammer.
Fish