TOPIC:

good morning everyone.

well, i've done some horse tradin', and in the deal i will be picking up a set of pm chicane wheels. the front is a 17x3.5, and the rear is an 18x5. yup, bloody huge.

i'm assuming that i will most likely need an outboard bearing support and probably a 5/8ths offset sprocket to use this thing. i have the swingarm part covered, as the bike it's going on has a kosman setup on it.

just want to make sure that i am in the right ballpark on my sprocket assumptions.

thanks everyone.

--r

Not familiar with those wheels, but yeah huge. Quite sure you're gonna need at least 5/8" offset for a tire (like 180) unless you run the wheel offset too (don't like this idea). But in my experience, different wheels locate the sprocket carrier in different places. For example, I discovered the ZX11 rear is ridiculously wide. There was no way to get a straight chain run, so I had to machine the sprocket carrier down -- it was way outboard of the tire, clearance apparently to match other ZX11 issues (frame/swingarm). You need to take a look at the cush drive/sprocket carrier arrangement to figure out the chain run.

chicanes, rear:



front:



hard to tell with the rear on the side like that. a 160 tire might be kinda small on there, but i'm thinking 180/190 will mosdef cause an offset sprocket.

i won't have the wheels for a couple of days, so i don't know how much offset that sprocket is gonna have on the rear. guess i should wait and see.

no cush drive, 8-bolt sprockets... probably need to get a hold of kosman or another shop. i *might* be able to get away with doing this up with a 530 chain and sprockets, 3/8ths offset only up front, and just using the spacers on the axle to make it line up.

but, that all depends. 8^)

--r

Post edited by: solomrus, at: 2006/01/25 12:16

You might get away without the outboard support. With the wheel centred and straight (use 2 long straight edges to the front wheel - 2x2" box section steel or ally is ideal) put a straight edge back from the front sprocket to see where your rear sprocket face should be. It can be a bit fiddly finding a suitable bit of bar to use as a straight edge for this but your local non-ferrous metals stockist should have something suitable.

On my 750 with ZX11 wheels I had to use a 10mm offset front and remove 6mm from the sprocket carrier to clear a 180 tyre. Use 530 chain and sprockets, 630 is old hat and 530 chain is narrower

that should work excellent lorcan! i'll give it a shot when i get the wheels down here, and have time to fit it.

i've got the tubing covered, i keep a few sticks around the shop for fabrication.

i'll see if i can use my carpenter's square for the straight edge, or just use a suitable length of alloy.

good ideas. thank you.

--r

I saved this from another post and it really makes sense. It should help you out. It was probably from the old forum, but I don't remember for sure.

This might be of help. The following is from William H. Carpenter on a thread at dragbike.com/forum a few years ago:

Important information for any wheel replacement. The chain line for a stock Z-1 bike is 3 5/8. This is the distance from the center of the wheel to the flange where the sprocket mounts. When this is combined with the now standard 5/8 offset (sprocket) gives a wheel with an offset of 4 1/4. This dimension is common for aftermarket wheels whether spoked or mags. If this dimension is something else, like using wheels from another bike, either the stock chain line is used and the wheel is not centered in the chassis or the chain line must be moved an equivalent amount to match the wheel. The wheel offset can easily be measured using a flat surface and a couple of straightedges (rulers). If the chain line is not maintained then the bike will easily break chains.

wow, ok, now i need to get my head around this...

i think i was trying to make this fit the wheel.. what this gentleman is talking about is JUST THE CHAINLINE.

ok, makes sense now.

so, assumption made, this new PM wheel will have an offset of 4.25(using a 5/8ths offset sprocket).

i will have to confirm this once i have the wheel on my workbench.

thanks for the info.

79, any luck finding a turbo for that bike yet?

--r



79MKII wrote:

I saved this from another post and it really makes sense. It should help you out. It was probably from the old forum, but I don't remember for sure.

This might be of help. The following is from William H. Carpenter on a thread at dragbike.com/forum a few years ago:

Important information for any wheel replacement. The chain line for a stock Z-1 bike is 3 5/8. This is the distance from the center of the wheel to the flange where the sprocket mounts. When this is combined with the now standard 5/8 offset (sprocket) gives a wheel with an offset of 4 1/4. This dimension is common for aftermarket wheels whether spoked or mags. If this dimension is something else, like using wheels from another bike, either the stock chain line is used and the wheel is not centered in the chassis or the chain line must be moved an equivalent amount to match the wheel. The wheel offset can easily be measured using a flat surface and a couple of straightedges (rulers). If the chain line is not maintained then the bike will easily break chains.

No luck with a turbo...I decided to spend the money in other areas. I have my head at the shop now - porting, larger valves, new cams, etc... and also planning a bigger bore, probably 1260. I just couldn't justify the money for a new turbo set up and couldn't find anything used that I felt comfortable with. Keep us posted on the wheel progress. It should look awesome!

Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2006/01/26 06:47

cool. moving forward is always good. the turbo would have been nice, but i totally hear you on your reasoning against it.

these wheels are part of a deal that i worked to buy a race bike. they were destined for the race machine, but i think i am going to put them on my street bike. 8^)

the turbo motor is going in this chassis, and the 900 that is in the drag bike is going in my street bike.

some other parts swapping shall ensue, but that should have me up and running by spring. i'll start a thread on the new bike and the progress here as soon as i get the bike home.

--r

im back,from florida that is!with bouncing baby 1327 kaw in back of van.anyway they make two differant grades of wheels the street version and the racing version!the racing ones are lighter but theyre very thin,be carefull if you have the thin ones a small bump will turn them into scrap! goodluck,happy wrenching!

wire, fire that beastie up, and roll up to my place!

how was the trip?

--r

got lost in 8 differant states! stopped in arkansas to drop my dad off hes got a stretch of road in front of his place five miles long with nothing on it,his personal test track Bigelow Flats he calls it!couldnt get into it like i wanted to(bald back tire)but its definately got potentialB) .im gonna pull it in the garage today and start pulling some parts off and fixing things,polishing things,plating things my god when will this disease end!bwaha i was looking at my Z1 when i was down there,i put it together 4 years ago from spare parts but never licensed it,looked at the title its a 74,not a 75!got too many damn projects when i cant remember what year a bike is!