TOPIC:

Is the entire frame on a 98 KZ1000P hollow?

Chris

An odd question.
The tubing is hollow. Some of the attachment points are solid, IE: rear axle, front axle, shock mounts, engine mounts, bar mounts, triple tree, etc.

I was afraid to answer the question...

Mcdroid wrote:

I was afraid to answer the question...

You don't have any reason to be scared. If anyone is going to be scared, it'll probably be me. If I mess up, it will mean a lot of heartache.

I've thought about re-re-wiring the Kaw for a while and a small technical error has given me that opportunity.

My plan is to run the wires though the frame. I don't think that drilling the holes will cause any structural issues. The backbone of the frame seems way over engineered and I don’t believe the other "planned" drill points are critical.

I’ve practiced my soldering technique so I can do this right (The last time I messed with this, I used butt connecters and male/female connecters). And I think running the wires through the frame will render a clean look. We’ll see.

Chris

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Yeah, that's my KZ...

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=25022

1998 KZ1000P...updates coming soon

Chris, I would be scared too! Kawasaki, with all their expertise, used to have a small slot on the handle-bars, for running the hand control cables through to the harness above the motor (KZ1000A1). This was discontinued and the only reason I can think of, is that, it serverely weakened the bars.

A small holes (cable size)in the frame does cause stress concentration, which weaken the frame. Further, these points are also prone to corrosion.

RegardZ

Post edited by: Garn, at: 2005/12/03 04:26

I have a suggestion.

If you want to do something totally 'different' why not run everything by 'computer'. You might run a single wire to the rear and another to the bars. It's possible to use the same wire for power and signaling. Use microprocessors. Maybe something from the PIC series. They run basic and are easy to program. They come in all the flavors you need to make the job easy.
www.microchip.com/stellent/idcplg?IdcSer...S_GET_PAGE&nodeId=64

If you really want to run through the frame, a single wire will require a smaller hole and be much easier to fish. You might end up with one small box for handle bar controls located on the bars or in the headlamp bucket and a second inside the stop/brake light housing.

Less complicated but also clean would be a cable that carries one heavy wire for power and some very small ones for control signals. With this you might eliminate most of the bulk of the wiring. Instead use some MOSFET's as switches at each device requiring power. Check with belden, anixter, times, ...

-Duck

Duck wrote:

I have a suggestion.

If you want to do something totally 'different' why not run everything by 'computer'. -Duck

Your suggestion has peaked my interest, but I think that path may be a bit over my head. Unless something is written somewhere, step-by-step, I don’t think that’s going to happen. Thanks.

Chris

I'd really recommend NOT drilling holes in your frame.

Think about it: There are reasons why nobody does this.

People have been running wiring through frames for years, if it was such a problem it wouldn't still be done 30 years later. Check some of the chopper sites/magazines etc, or hit the library for custom motorcycle books to see how it's done. Some of the Biker Buildoff shows show wiring being run through the frame, particularly the ones with Exile Cycles.
Drill all holes as small as possible and paint each
hole to prevent rust. If there is room, use a grommet to prevent shorts, if not be sure the wiring is sleeved to protect it.
If I find any "factory holes" in my frame tubes, I give them a squirt of Rust Check oil spray to prevent rust from condensation inside the frame (don't do this if you intend to repaint your frame anytime soon!). Many of the rust preventave oil sprays are safe to use with wiring and rubber parts, check the label.

Good luck chris with your build / mods. As far as drilling holes in your frame. If you drill in many different location then it would play a factor, however if you drill where the frame is already over engineered you will have no problems. I am currently transformong my 1977 KZ 1000 A into a ridged with a girder front end. If you are worried then replace the tubing with DOM and drill as required. Depending on your state you may not have to run indicators / other wires. Just some general info. Cheers Dan

I have a wire diagram for a KZ 1000 soif you want it just ask.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I haven't started yet, I figure if I keep staring at it, it'll wire itself...so far that's unsucesful. I keep looking at it trying to figure the best course of action and waiting till I have more than an hour at a time to sit down and dig in. I'll let ya'll know when I get some prgress.

Chris

All these old KZ's have hollow frames if not they would weigh quite a bit more.