TOPIC:

Hi guys, so I recently put my Z1R all back together and tried to fire it up. Now has lots of issues that I didn’t put it away with and I’m not sure what happened. It now will no longer idle without choke and sometimes even then barely, will not rev as it has a terrible misfire and stumbles and also has an exhaust leak. I put new plugs and plug caps on half the cylinders, still waiting on the others to ship to me. Checked fir arching and couldn’t find any. I tried checking timing and I could find the timing mark for 1&4 that the manual outlines and  it looks close enough, but couldn’t find one for 2&3 anyone know why that might be? The instruction section for checking the timing for two and three consists of “check timing” so I’m not sure what I’m missing. Is there a timing mark for 2&3 at all or is it just so far off that it’s not showing. When turning the engine over by hand I found only one F mark, but I’m not sure if that’s cause you’re only supposed to check the timing for 1&4 or if the timing on 2&3 is supposed to line up with that as well and in my case it’s so far off that I can’t see it. I didn’t have this issue when I put the bike away but during my engine rebuild I did accidentally use the smaller nut in the end of the crankshaft instead of the bigger one. The manual says not to do that as it may mess with the timing so figure that’s what happened. If there is only one timing mark for both coils how would I go about fixing it, as the bike doesn’t have points and the manual says nothing about resetting timing because it’s supposed to last the life of the bike, according to the manual. Sorry for such a long post but any insight would be appreciated. Thanks

The only 1009 advancer I have is pretty rusty but the best I can see is you will have a “T” I “F” I 1-4. Then on 2-3 only a “T” I . Is it possible you have the relector on 180degs out. I think they will go on both ways. You can measure the distance at 1-4 between T and F and scribe an F mark on the 2-3 side. 

Found this photo on evilbay.

 

Tried to adjust constant and brightness, maybe easier to see

 

Did you take the carbs apart, clean them completely, and replace all the soft parts like O-rings and gaskets?  Did you adjust the valves? Are the carb and airbox boots soft and pliable, and sealing properly?  All the various maintenance items as detailed in the factory shop manual up to date?

wrote:

The only 1009 advancer I have is pretty rusty but the best I can see is you will have a “T” I “F” I 1-4. Then on 2-3 only a “T” I . Is it possible you have the relector on 180degs out. I think they will go on both ways. You can measure the distance at 1-4 between T and F and scribe an F mark on the 2-3 side. 

I never took the advancer apart and it was running fine then so I don’t think that’s the problem

wrote:

Did you take the carbs apart, clean them completely, and replace all the soft parts like O-rings and gaskets?  Did you adjust the valves? Are the carb and airbox boots soft and pliable, and sealing properly?  All the various maintenance items as detailed in the factory shop manual up to date?
yes rebuilt entire carbs using new stock jets and seals and replaced all rubber parts during motor refresh and all valves were in spec 

 

List everything that you did to the bike.