TOPIC:

i have a '77 kz650 and cannot get the neutral light to come on. i put a new bulb in, still didn't work. i checked with a wire tester and it is getting power but when i put a bulb in it doesn't work.

Check the switch, I think it's behind the sprocket cover on the left side. Maybe the wire just came off.

It's more than likely right at the switch(neutral indicator switch),down at the engine...Retro...where are Ya,Bud?
Those switches fail over time...Mine did on My 1000...I put in a spare...all good.
Not sure about Your 650,but that's My guess.

Usually it IS the switch that goes bad. The pin either wears down and/or the pin return spring looses tension, or the pin itself becomes stuck in the switch and isn't contacting the plate on the shift drum to complete the circuit.
The switch screws into the mission cover, which is located directly behind the left engine (sprocket) cover.

In very RARE cases, the plate attached to the end of the shift drum where the switch pin contacts to complete the connection will become gunked up enough with burnt engine oil that it won't function, or the plate itself is bent due to other internal damage (ie: a broken piece of a shift fork or a chunk of a shattered bearing have impacted it). At that point, knowing whether your bike is in neutral or not is the least of your worries.

Check the easy stuff first though:
Follow the wire to the switch and check for any damage. Then move on to removing the switch to examine it.

FWIW, my neutral light will flicker and disappear temporarily when I rev the engine to a certain RPM.
Which would indicate the pin on the switch is worn, and/or the return spring for that pin is weak.

I plan on replacing it when I tear the bike down for it's rebuild.

Post edited by: RetroRiceRocketRider, at: 2006/04/02 20:20

This thread has just reminded me that my neutral light has not come on for about 4 years. About 3 years ago i checked the bulb so know it's the switch. I really should fix it....one of these years.

..............................................................................................
Woodstock ON Canada
1980 kz750E1, 4->1, K&N pods.

RetroRiceRocketRider wrote:

In very RARE cases, the plate attached to the end of the shift drum where the switch pin contacts to complete the connection will become gunked up enough with burnt engine oil that it won't function, or the plate itself is bent due to other internal damage (ie: a broken piece of a shift fork or a chunk of a shattered bearing have impacted it). At that point, knowing whether your bike is in neutral or not is the least of your worries.



br><br>Post edited by: RetroRiceRocketRider, at: 2006/04/02 20:20

Thanks, now Im scared. Mine doesnt come on either, and I replaced the switch last year. Its a PITA to not have it sometimes. I have to be right on in my garage and many times have tried starting it in gear.

More to add to the "if I get a good day off from work that doesnt involve in-laws" list

From memory, there really isn't a "switch" or at least there is no switch on a KZ900/KZ1000. What there is is a contact that is molded into a plastic base that screws into the inner countershaft cover. On the outside of the external shift drum is a round cover. It has ONE outward dimple that corresponds to the one longer shift pin on the drum. This pin corresponds to the neutral position of the drum which is at the 8 oclock position... The longer pin will touch the longer dimple when the bike is in neutral and the outer dimple completes the circuit to the neutral idiot light. What folks are calling the neutral switch doesn't have any moving parts. I suspect, if you remove the "switch" and clean the contact area on its rear with an emory board or steel wool, it would improve conductivity. In addition. it is possible that the pins in the external shift drum can wear and the longest, being the one that contacts the neutral circuit, would be one that should be replaced if the idiot light works when powered but doesn't ever come on. I am not sure where you would get one of these pins. Last, I would clean the connector that slips onto the end of the "switch" as it is prone to corrosion and bad contact.

The neutral switch on the 650s is different from the one on the big bikes and actually has moving parts. The switch sits in the transmission cover right below the clutch pushrod - on the inside there´s a springloaded pin that rides on the shift drum end plate when the bike is in gear = neutral light off. When you shift into neutral the pin aligns with a recess in the shift drum end plate that allows the pin to jump forward and complete the circuit = neutral light on. If the plug is corroded (or the wire is broken), if the switch is frozen or the recess in the end plate is full of gunk so the pin can´t jump out, the circuit won´t be completed and the light won´t come on. If you remove the sprocket cover and lean the bike over to the right (to avoid oil spill), you can remove the switch and check if the pin moves freely (if you press it in it should come back out when released) - if you shift into neutral you can clean the recess in the shift drum end plate with a Q-Tip or similar through the hole in the transmission cover.





Post edited by: onkelb, at: 2006/04/03 10:58

mjwriz wrote:

i have a '77 kz650 and cannot get the neutral light to come on. i put a new bulb in, still didn't work. i checked with a wire tester and it is getting power but when i put a bulb in it doesn't work.

If it is getting power at the bulb socket it may be that the bulb is not grounding. I would suggest a good cleaning of the socket.
Harry