TOPIC:

Hi everybody!

I just finished a full rebuild to replace a twisted crank. Got the bike to start up this morning! YES! But now, the starter clutch won't engage. I didn't replace any parts under the alternator cover. The manual mentions three thicknesses of clutch dampers. I didn't mess around with checking proper damper selection when I put it together, even though it is a completely new crankshaft. I wonder if that could be causing the problem? I haven't tore into it yet to test anything. Just trying to get a feel for what could be wrong. I'm not exactly sure how this thing operates and why it wouldn't be engaging. The Clymer manual is pretty brief on this item. Any suggestions???

Cheers,

Maverick

The model of the bike would help since some models are different than others.

Ooops, I was in such a rush to get the post up that I forgot to mention what bike it is... It's an '81 KZ 1000 with the J-model engine. The kicker is that there is no kicker, so if I can't get the starter to work, my only other option is to push-start it - no fun with a 500-lb bike.

was kinda wondering the same thing got on my bike today and the starter spins kinda sounds like a spun gear or something i have a 82 gpz 1100 no manual and was wondering what you found out / had to push start it to get it home fun fun fun any help would be great

I just read about Someone else having a problem with the electric start...a while back,and this came to mind...
I'm pretty sure that the "J" engines have a different style rotor on the end of the crank...some are taper-fit only and I think others have a woodruff key(like Mine)...did Your original crank have a slot for a key?
What was happening with Mine was I had sheared off the woodruff key...the starter WAS turning over,but it was only turning the rotor on the end of the crank,and not turning the crank...
Now...I'm not 100% sure on the different cranks,so if Someone else could jump in here...Someone that knows for sure?...

Hi there gpzpete,

Mine was a simple fix. The bolt holding the rotor on had just come loose. So with the help of a friend, I was able to crank it down tighter. 90 ft-lb is the recommended torque. I've heard another common problem is that the springs and push rods in the clutch mechanism get gummed up and so the rollers aren't getting pushed up against the rotor as tightly as they should be. Since you don't have a manual, you can check out buykawasaki.com for parts diagrams... No substitute for a manual, but should get you somewhere...

Cheers,

Maverick

thanks maverick i will look into it... trying to find a good manual on the bike now!!!! gotta love these sites and the help people give out was looking at the starter clutch rebuild kits and how to put them in
need to get a manual and go through the whole starter system i hope its something simple!!!!!!
Thanks again
gpzpete