TOPIC:

What is the battery voltage when you are getting 10.5v at the coils and Dyna ignition ? (any poor connections along the way will be magnified the more current you pull through them)

wrote:

What is the battery voltage when you are getting 10.5v at the coils and Dyna ignition ? (any poor connections along the way will be magnified the more current you pull through them)

12.2 volts at battery and with dyna s disconnected so just powering coils they measure 12.2 but with dyna s connected they all drop to 10.5. 
 

wrote:

wrote:

What is the battery voltage when you are getting 10.5v at the coils and Dyna ignition ? (any poor connections along the way will be magnified the more current you pull through them)

12.2 volts at battery and with dyna s disconnected so just powering coils they measure 12.2 but with dyna s connected they all drop to 10.5. 

 

Is the battery voltage also dropping to 10.5v when you connect the DynaS ?

wrote:

wrote:

wrote:

What is the battery voltage when you are getting 10.5v at the coils and Dyna ignition ? (any poor connections along the way will be magnified the more current you pull through them)

12.2 volts at battery and with dyna s disconnected so just powering coils they measure 12.2 but with dyna s connected they all drop to 10.5. 


 

Is the battery voltage also dropping to 10.5v when you connect the DynaS ?

First of all thank you for your help and responses.
I have done some more checks and this is what I found.
Battery voltage with everything switched off 12.98v
Battery voltage with ignition on and everything connected 12.68v, coil voltage 9.2v, dyna s connector 9.3v
With dyna s disconnected the voltage at coils is 12.6v
With coils disconnected the voltage at dyna s connector is 12.6v
 

Ok so I don't think the Dyna is the problem neccecerily (when it is disconnected the switch side of the coils is likely to be open circuit so the coils won't put any load on the system) Use a wiring diagram work back along the circuit that feeds the ign checking voltage at each point until you find where the voltage drops off and this will tell you where the resistance is (could be a connector, ign switch, kill switch, fuse holder etc) this build up of resistance at all these points is the very reason for using a by-pass relay if all other circuits are working as they should.
Take a look at the below link
kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/617512-ig...-pass-relay-w#866367
 

Just dropping in as I have a lull at work.

It just looks like the Dyna with the coils is pulling a lot of current.It doesn't appear as a voltage drop issue as much as the Dyna plus the coils is very very thirsty.

Your alternator will have to be able to counter the drain the Dyna puts on your electrical system.This may explain why you are blowing fuses.

I remember reading somewhere that Dyna doesn't really have a dwell. It supposedly stays on all of the time.(I'll look it up later)Yep, Lou mentioned that the Dyna sends power to the coils any time the Dyna is not firing.

Courtesy of loudhvx
kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/615133-te...gnition-off-the-bike 

wrote:

Just dropping in as I have a lull at work.It just looks like the Dyna with the coils is pulling a lot of current.It doesn't appear as a voltage drop issue as much as the Dyna plus the coils is very very thirsty.Surely if this was the case the "entire" system voltage would be pulled down (battery voltage during cranking is around 9.5v - 10.5v) in this case when the ign voltage is 9.2v the battery voltage is 12.6v so there is a significant volt drop ??

Voltage variations greater than approx 0.5v can only occur if there is a consumer (component or resistance) in "series" upstream of the point where the lower voltage is being measured

Your alternator will have to be able to counter the drain the Dyna puts on your electrical system.This may explain why you are blowing fuses.I remember reading somewhere that Dyna doesn't really have a dwell. It supposedly stays on all of the time.(I'll look it up later)Yep, Lou mentioned that the Dyna sends power to the coils any time the Dyna is not firing.Courtesy of loudhvx
kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/615133-te...gnition-off-the-bike 


 

I think I'm confused at way the measurements are being taken.
I'm not sure where their probes are and if everything is powered up and connected.
If their black probe stays on the negative battery post and they turnseverything on and everything is connected.
Then moves the red probe to the positive battery post.
Then red probe to the positive side of the coils.
If they get the voltage drop between the battery and the coils then I would believe the positive wire has a voltage drop issue.

They could have their drop on the ground side of the coil as well.

I read the included text in the red circle as them keeping their probes on the battery at all times.

You asked the question:
Is the battery voltage also dropping to 10.5v when you connect the DynaS ?

I was thinking the red box was their answer

F64
The negative lead was connected to the negative terminal of the battery at all times.
The positive lead was used to measure the battery voltage with the igniton both off and on. 12.98v (ignition off) and 12.68v(ignition on)
The positive lead was then moved to the coil terminals and then to the connector going to the dyna s. 9.2v (coils) and 9.3v (dyna s connection)
So in summary, when the voltage read 9.2 at the coils the battery voltage was at 12.68
What puzzles me is that if the dyna s is disconnected so its just the original connections going from the kill switch to the coils then the voltage at the coils is 12.6v and conversely if the connection going to the coils is disconnected so there is just power going to the dyna s then that too is at 12.6v
Its just when the coils and dyna s are all connected together that the voltage drops to 9.2v

The reason for no voltage drop is both the dyna and the coils have to be connected for there to be current flowing. If you disconnect either, the readings won't matter as you need a load to test for voltage drop. That why you see the 12.6 volts.

Wookie is correct in that you have a voltage drop along that coil wire back to the battery.

You'll have to leave everything on and connected and probe along that coil wire with your red probe back to the battery. Leave your black probe on the negative battery post during the testing.

You can only do this for maybe 5 minutes at a time to prevent the coils from overheating.

When you find a spot where the voltage goes up significantly then you have found your issue.

Also, put your red probe on the ground wire for the Dyna. Your voltage should be as close to 0.00 volts as possible. Anything above 0.5 volts is too much and you have a bad ground going to the Dyna.

wrote:

The reason for no voltage drop is both the dyna and the coils have to be connected for there to be current flowing. If you disconnect either, the readings won't matter as you need a load to test for voltage drop. That why you see the 12.6 volts.

Wookie is correct in that you have a voltage drop along that coil wire back to the battery.

You'll have to leave everything on and connected and probe along that coil wire with your red probe back to the battery. Leave your black probe on the negative battery post during the testing.

You can only do this for maybe 5 minutes at a time to prevent the coils from overheating.

When you find a spot where the voltage goes up significantly then you have found your issue.

Also, put your red probe on the ground wire for the Dyna. Your voltage should be as close to 0.00 volts as possible. Anything above 0.5 volts is too much and you have a bad ground going to the Dyna.

ok thank you. Making more sense now.
I will have a look for a wiring diagram and trace it back although ultimately I guess unless its a connection rather than switchgear resistance The relay mod will be the way to go.
 

It would be good to trace the fault as it may be affecting other items if it's on the battery side of the ignition switch.