TOPIC:

Ok. The 650 is running better. Im getting sooting on #3 pretty bad and still choppy at idle. 1&2 are darker than they should be. #4 is perfect light brown.

1. Valve clearances are within the tolerances.
2. Did wg coil powering rewire. Starts much better!
3. took apart carbs. syncronized. reset float levels. blew out pilot circut. totally clean. air screws at 2 turns. Inline fuel filter. the works.
4. replaced and timed points. Timing gun sometimes sporadic. More sporadic on 2 and 3 wires.
5. Plug chop test at 5000 rpm for 1/2 mile. Still sooty on 3
6. Resistance ok on coils
7. compression good on all

The Plug wires are really hard. Too short to cut any off. I already ruined a spare coil and found out that the wire is molded in and has no metal post inside to attach a new wire to. By time i buy wire splicers, wires and new plug caps its going to be at least 50 bucks. Should i bite the bullet and just get new dyna coils and some wires and just be done with these old ones? Are the dyna 3ohm coils going to provide better spark than even a properly functioning stock coil?
Thanks everybody.

Post edited by: 70seven6fifty, at: 2006/02/15 18:30

Post edited by: 70seven6fifty, at: 2006/02/15 18:50

Post edited by: 70seven6fifty, at: 2006/02/15 21:28

New coils will probably help, but a Dyna ignition would make a big difference too. Sounds like you may have carb problems, but you need to sort out the ignition first (as you are doing).

First, the air screws shouldn't be out two turns. You are compensating for another problem. The problem very well could be electrical and not carburetor but there isn't any way to tell with the lack of info.

What type ignition do you have? The problem with the strobe light indicates that your coils are not firing all the time. This indicates ignition problems. Since you are sooting the #3 plug and the ignition problems seem to be on 2 and 3, I suggest you look at fixing the ignition problem.

First, if you have points/condensor, get a new set of points and condensors or as Loud pointed out, spring for a Dyna S. The prices on those things are incredibly low at this point. Try Z1enterprises. Also get a set of Dyna plug wires and some new coils. If you still have the problem (and I would be surprised if you do), move the discussion to the carb forum area.

I know it is a bite to spend the bucks but if your ignition is bad; and that includes plug wires/caps and points/condensors, the bike just won't be any fun to ride.

If you were sooting up the #3 plug and did a plug chop correctly; that is, took the bike to a desserted area, stopped and swapped in new plugs and then immediately took off and ran wide open for 1/2 mile and shut it down with the kill switch and looked at the plugs, the ONLY way a plug would soot is you have a MUCH larger main jet OR an ignition problem. The airflow can't be obstructed as your slides are open and air is coming through the MAIN VENTURI. It IS possible that the main jet you are using is hosed and someone drilled it too large but if your #3 plug soots during normal riding as well, it isn't likely that mid-range and idle circuit are both way richer than the other carbs.

Thanks for being patient with a newbie.

I am still running on the stock points ignition. Replacing and retiming the points did not seem to make much of a difference.

I put a new plug in cylinder 3 just before i went out for a ride. It sooted up so fast! I did not however swap a new one in just before the plug chop test. I will do that next time. I thought that the soot would burn off. It looked like it did a bit but just around the electrodes. Plug #4 looked whiter but still in good shape.
Since i havent upgraded jets from 102 after putting on the pods and since im running the hotter plugs i would assume that the plugs should be on the whiter side. I think that WG is right and that i am trying to compensate for problems in the ignition.

looks like im going to be springing for the Dyna ignition and coils.

If this were anything else I would have gotten frustrated and sold it by now. Im in too deep and it is a matter of pride to get this thing running top notch now. I have become an addict!

BTW: When I talk about a plug chop, I think I am talking about doing something different than you did. Here is the REASON for a plug chop: To check the air/fuel mixture of the MAIN JET ONLY. To do this, you need to go to an isolated area (so you won't get a ticket) and stop by the side of the road and put in a FRESH BRAND NEW set of plugs in the stock recommended heat range. Start the bike and quickly accelerate and run in 4th or 5th gear with the throttle WIDE OPEN for at least a 1/2 mile. Then hit your kill switch and coast to the side of the road. If you pull your plugs at this point, the color on the plugs will reflect the mixture of the main jet ONLY. You can adjust main jet size UP OR DOWN depending on how white or how sooty the plugs are. The main jets should all be the same size. I suspect you don't really need or want to do a plug chop at this point.

Timing an old set of points might be just wasting time. Either replace the points/condensors OR install the electronic ignition. The reason plugs foul can be poor combustion caused by poor spark and may not be carb related. Once you have the ignition sorted, then it will be time to sort the carbs as you will have a firm platform to work from. Right now, mucking with the carburetors only moves the problem around and will yeild frustrating results.