TOPIC:

I am having issues with the firing of 2 plugs which are connected to the same coil. All 4 of the plugs are new and the problem does NOT follow the plugs. I haven't swapped the coils yet to see if the problem follows the so-called bad coil. While I am in the process of troubleshooting the issue I referenced my Clymer Manual and didn't see any information on the firing order, to ensure the plug wires aren't crossed. Does anyone have a schematic showing the plug wire runs from the coils to the cylinders? Additionally, are the cylinders numbered 1 through 4 from left to right? What other componenents are possible culprits?

Thanks!

Looking forward the cylinders are numbered from left to right 1 thru 4. The left coil serves cylinders 1 and 4. Right coil serves cylinders 2 and 3.
Harry

Hey 82KZ1000KLTD,
If you had the wires hooked up inappropriately the bike would not run especially with two dead plugs, or one dead coil. It's possible that you have wiring problems with one coil, or just a bad coil. Check your voltages at each coil. Pull off the secondary wires and look for any corrosion in the coils or in the plug caps. Look for any cracks in the coil housing as these are indications of overheating. Start pulling connectors apart wherever you find them. Look for corrosion, use a fine wire brush to clean up the connectors and use a bit of dielectric grease when you put them back together.
Good luck
KZCSI

Test the coils with a multimeter per Clymer's procedure. If you don't have a multimeter, go spend $15 on one at your local big box retailer or Radio Shack. If it saves you from spending money on a single part you don't actually need, you'll be glad you did. Trust me on this.

Now, pick a coil. Test the resistance between the plug wires on that coil. You should get about 23k ohms (double-check your Clymer's manual for the correct value). Now check the colored wires on the other side of the coil (green/yellow or black/yellow, IIRC). You should get about 4 ohms.

If the numbers are bad on the spark-plug side (infinite resistance), don't blame the coil immediately. Try piercing the insulation on the plug wires themselves. The spark plug caps can develop small internal gaps which an ignition coil can generate the voltage to jump but your meter won't.

The ends of the stock coil wires screw off -- you can replace just the ends that plug onto the spark plugs. They have resistance themselves (often 5k per cap). Pierce the plug-wire insulation with one meter test lead, and test resistance to the electrode that normally contacts the spark plug. If you read infinite resistance, consider replacing the spark plug caps. It's possible to run with bad caps, but they're only a few bucks apiece online. A new set of four can't hurt, unless you're going to aftermarket coils in which case you'll usually be using their supplied wires and caps.

Whew -- once you've properly checked out the coils, trace the connections between the coils and the ignition cover. There are connections in the wiring that are hidden behind the frame rail that can come loose. If this happens, the coil may be fine, but it won't be getting the pulses sent be the ignition system.

If you've got a few hundred bucks to burn, scrap the whole thing and buy Dyna electronic ignition, coils, wires, and plug caps. It's a great upgrade, and will buy you performance and peace of mind. If you don't have the dough, do yourself a huge favor and track down a cheap multimeter and service manual. They'll save you tons in the long run.

Let me know if I can clarify anything or provide pointers. Hopefully others will fill in whatever gaps I've missed...

Thanks for all of the useful information. I found that the pickup was dirty and some light cleaning solved the problem. Bike is running great.....the only remaining issue now is to find a 4-brush Starter for this 82 KZ1000K LTD. I have priced rebuilts at $155-200....new starters $350+....anyone know where I can find a used starter in decent condition for less?

Thanks,
Mark

You could try posting something in the site classifieds. I had good luck when I was trying to track down a regulator/rectifier for my SR, and there are plenty of guys parting out bikes these days.

Good luck!

I wouldn't buy a new or rebuilt starter if I could avoid it due to cost. FIRST find out what starters from other models will work in your bike. There are folks with cross-reference software who are happy to look it up. I have the software but my software isn't working. Post the part number for your starter!

Once you know the models that will fit, look on eBay. there are always starters on auction. I personally always keep at least one or two spare starters on my parts shelves.

I found a local guy with a used 2-brush starter for $50 which has a heavier casing and bolts on perfectly. I have heard that the older 2-brush models perform and hold up much better than the later 4-brush models with the lighter casing. Thanks again to all that replied!

My 80 ltd 1000 did the same thing it was the pick up coil.They will usually go out before the coil.