TOPIC:

At the risk of starting yet another "oil discussion" - 
I'm ready to assemble my VM28's after a thorough cleaning, what is a good lubricant for the moving parts and pivot points?

I use Molykote on O-Rings and and jet/pilot threads. 3-1 oil on pivots and sliding points. 

I don't use anything.

A light wipe of Frog Lube grease on the ball & cup joints & disassembled rotating shafts, one drop of Frog Lube liquid on the tip of a toothpick for any assembled ball & cup joints, particularly the two ball & cup joints inside the slide. Maximum two drops of Frog Lube liquid on any other moving parts (shafts mostly) still assembled.  A damp wipe of WD-40 on the slide & slide bore, then polish dry with a lint-free cloth for final clean, dry insertion.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

 

If it helps? I do multitudes of carb 4-cyl banks. If the bronze (2) are in decent shape and the holder isn't warped, just slide it thru to verify first, any oiling isn't a make-up for warpage. There are felt o-rings that keep the grit out. No reasoning to put any emollient to "grab" grit from the surroundings in the bracket 2 bushings, like hardrock mentioned, dry is just fine. If You are working on the 72-75 carbs with multiple joints use a silicone grease like Dow Corning High Vacuum grease. And walk a bit down the threads of adjusters too, keeps everything happily adjustable in the future.  

Actually to verify this conclusion as to oil or not, pull Your shaft out the bracket, You won't find any lubricant. Just dried out brown felts perhaps but you won't even find any semblance of any lube as originally equipped. 

Nothing like proof thru photos, i do a lot of similar crap and have resulting feedback over singular sales of banks and restorations completed. Nothing will go array if You don't lubricate them bushings but Dip those ball bearing similiar joints in whatever lube You choose.     

One has to equate this same scenario as to the consensus that to lube up the handlebar for their RH throttle flute makes it better for response and quick return. It's a fallacy been often touted and often practiced but always a bad idea. All one does is create a bed for a grit compound , the stuff you would want to finish lap your valves with. I've seen plenty of this misconception/construed over the years.  

cant really add to this but just i just use some copper slip on the choke leaver as it passes through the carb body

thanks for your answers.
Oops, when I assembled the bars, grips, and levers I used a little lube under the throttle sleeve.  But the Oury grips are closed on the ends so maybe it won't be so bad.

edit:  On second thought it's winter I have time to clean the lube off from under the sleeve.  

I use waterproof grease in the bronze bushings for the throttle shaft.  For the choke actuation shaft, I use dry Teflon spray lube, after the shaft is installed.  On the slide ball joints, I use this dry lube stuff intended for bicycle chains.  It's thicker than the dry Teflon stuff, so it has more staying power.