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RS34-D21-K 13 Dec 2023 10:35 #892703

  • MLMG
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Hello everyone, I have RS34-D21-K carburetors installed on my KZ1000A1 with less than 1000 kilometers on the new engine, which have never been calibrated. The motorcycle runs very well. I have some cheap vacuum gauges; what advice can you give me? Should I wait until it has more kilometers? Should I leave it as it is? The color on the stainless steel exhaust is even on all four outlets. I appreciate any information. Thank you.
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000 A1

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RS34-D21-K 13 Dec 2023 15:05 #892709

  • Kelly E
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I put the same set of carbs on my 77' KZ 1000 B2 and it runs great out of the box too. We also put a set of RS36 carbs on the 80' Suzuki GS 1100E and got the same result so we didn't touch it either.
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1974 Honda CB 550 K0
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1977 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD
1980 Suzuki GS 1100E
1981 Suzuki GS 1100E
1982 Honda CB 900F Super Sport
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1984 Honda Interceptor 1000
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RS34-D21-K 13 Dec 2023 15:31 #892710

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A well calibrated vacuum manometer will confirm how precise the carb balance is.

If you want precision tuning, then good enough just isn't.

 
1982 KZ1100-A2

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RS34-D21-K 14 Dec 2023 06:10 #892721

  • Dragbike_Mike
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The RS34's are great carbs.  Synchronizing them with a vacuum gauge or manometer can be problematic as the carbs themselves do not have any type of vacuum port on them.  And, if using J-model carb boots to mount the carbs to an earlier KZ head, then those boots won't have any vacuum ports, either.  I always confirmed that the slide heights were the same using a piece of drill rod.  Not as accurate as the vacuum gauge method, for sure, but good enough for a race motor.  It at least will get you in the ballpark.

Mike

 
Presently - 1980 KZ1000B4 LTD w/mild ported head, Megacycle cams, 1015cc Wiseco, Falicon Supercrank, R&D undercut trans
In a former life - KZ-based dragbike - CrMo car tire chassis, 1395cc, Hahn Racecraft turbo system, VP C16, Orient Express 3-spd auto, 7.80's @ 165-170.
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RS34-D21-K 15 Dec 2023 09:45 #892765

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The RS34's are great carbs.  Synchronizing them with a vacuum gauge or manometer can be problematic as the carbs themselves do not have any type of vacuum port on them.  And, if using J-model carb boots to mount the carbs to an earlier KZ head, then those boots won't have any vacuum ports, either.  I always confirmed that the slide heights were the same using a piece of drill rod.  Not as accurate as the vacuum gauge method, for sure, but good enough for a race motor.  It at least will get you in the ballpark.

Mike




 
Hi Mike
But the carburetors I have include some rubber plugs. Aren't they for connecting the vacuum gauge? 
 
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000 A1
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RS34-D21-K 15 Dec 2023 11:19 #892771

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Hah!  Yes, those sure do look like vacuum ports!  I do stand corrected as Mikuni must have updated the design somewhere between the late 1990's and now.  I wish that I had that feature on my set of RS34's; especially when I was running them on the street.  

And, to answer your original question - synching your carbs with a good set of vacuum gauges can have a noticeable positive effect on your off idle throttle response, i.e. when pulling away from a dead stop.  If you're happy right now with how things stand, then no need to mess with carbs.  Maybe down the road if you really want to fine tune things.  Just my opinion.

Mike
Presently - 1980 KZ1000B4 LTD w/mild ported head, Megacycle cams, 1015cc Wiseco, Falicon Supercrank, R&D undercut trans
In a former life - KZ-based dragbike - CrMo car tire chassis, 1395cc, Hahn Racecraft turbo system, VP C16, Orient Express 3-spd auto, 7.80's @ 165-170.

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RS34-D21-K 16 Dec 2023 11:35 #892790

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Definitely!




1982 KZ1100-A2

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