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I've used JB Weld on my Mikuni 29 mm Smoothbore carbs, among many other motorcycle applications, and it has lasted for a long time. But JB Weld when used in some applications might not hold up, I'll grant you that.

Did you ensure that the parts to be mated via JB Weld were super clean? Did you allow at least 24 hours in a warm environment for curing?

The three cylinder head fins that I JB-Welded onto my '73 Z1 in 1977 are still holding up. When I broke that cast-in tab which holds the tach drive in my '73 Z1's cylinder head, I JB-Welded it in place. It lasted for many years before I had it fixed via 'real' aluminum welds and only because 'other' welding on the head was needed (don't ask why!).

peachc wrote:

........Did you use the putty kind which you just mixed with your fingers or did you get the kit with the two tubes which you mixed together?

I used the two tubes which you mix together.

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Woodstock ON Canada
1980 kz750E1, 4->1, K&N pods

awesome! Thanks again guys, I am trying the JB Weld one more time, making sure that everything was clean as can be! So lets see if it holds up this time!

this is what i did to fix mine..u can take those brass tubes out and solder the crack. i used a pair of vicegrips and clamped real easy on the tube comming out of the bottom of bowl.just give it a little twist and it will come right out.next i used a punch the same size of the hole and drove the inside tube out just a few taps will do the job..clean the tube good with sandpapper and solder it up.be careful not to get solder on the part of the tube that goes in the float bowl..put tube back in and u are good to go with out worry....hope that helps..i fixed two that way

mustache