TOPIC:

building my first engine(kz1000)and have everything together.timed my cams and double checked timing twice.rolled engine over by hand and engine stopped half way around.checked to make sure valves not hitting ppistons.remove cam chain and rolled cams around by hand (of coures with pistons half way down ).found #2 exhaust valve maxed out.(had the smallest shim size 2.00mm installed ).i think the stem highth of the valve is the problem.had the valve work done by a kid that goes to a motorcycle trade school.i know that the teachers check the work to verify its done right(having gone to trade school myself ).is there something i over looked?can i grind the stem down with the head on?should i take head off and check stem highth?i hate to do things twice but want to do it right so this bike is worth it) sorry about the long post.i know info is important for proper diagnosis.any and all comments are appreciated.

I would remove the head and pull the valves from the head to grind them. That's the only way you are going to get the tip of the valve reasonably flat, plus the dust created by grinding is extemely abrasive.

You have all that time/work/money in the motor, why take the chance of wiping it out?

Pull head.

There is a section in the manual on setting valve stem length to get shims back in range. I'll ditto the no grind while installed comment. You don't want dross from grinding wheel in the system and it's definitely going to be more hassle getting the thing flat and the right height if you try to grind with head installed. not to mention getting a grinder in there if you already have the thing in the frame.

My 87 police needs valves cut and I'm gonna cut the ends for 255 shims so there is some room down the road for whoever inherits the thing when I go for the dirt nap.

Still looking for a good $100 Eaton M45 and a steal on a KZ1000 clutch basket or full monty...I'm so cheap...

-Duck

We have a cheap gage for making sure the stems are in shim range. Figure out how much you need to remove from each valve. Take them to a head shop that has a Kwik Way valve grinder. They have a stem grinder on them that can take off just the right amount and hold them perfectly square.

Jay
www.kzzone.com

it sounds to me like the valve retainer is coming in contact with the guide,if the cams are over .370-.380" you will have to take some metal off the underside of the retainers(.040-.050")& splitkeepers,it could be coilbinding also if your using stock springs with highlift cams.

if the retainer did contact the guide it has prally ruined your new stem seals:(

if your using stock cams there is something in the bucket bore making the spring bind

at any rate the head will have to come back off.

You can run 435 lift cams without retainer to guide inerference.

However, don't go over .360 with stock springs.

Jay

Jay;
thanks for the info, I have been misled into beleving that if you had an old 1000/900 head you had to run no more than .370-.380" because of ret-guide issues,and now I find out its just the springs:)