TOPIC:

I bought new plugs for my 79 1000LTD and when I went to install them they have a solid top terminal and the ones in my bike are threaded (pictures attached). I cannot seem to find this style anywhere?? The plug wires I have will not accept the solid style (too big). 

Those are resistor plugs.  Your bike takes B8ES, not BR8ES.  Alternate, ND W24ES or W24ESU.  The ND's might be easier to find.

www.amazon.com/Denso-W24ES-U-Spark-Plugs-Pack/dp/B005BR1DF8

Just unscrew the top terminal?

Nessism wrote:

Those are resistor plugs.  Your bike takes B8ES, not BR8ES.  Alternate, ND W24ES or W24ESU.  The ND's might be easier to find.

www.amazon.com/Denso-W24ES-U-Spark-Plugs-Pack/dp/B005BR1DF8

Thanks ED just ordered a set.

 

With NGK they have different versions of the BR8ES.
One has a removable terminal nut. The other version has a solid terminal nut. You must have purchased the solid terminal 7986 BR8ES. The removable terminal nut plug is 5422 BR8ES.

The non-resistor B8ES is number 2411 and it looks like Napa has stock online.
www.napaonline.com/en/p/NGK2411

Ditto F64's info but..I believe NGK ceased production of the Non-Resistor plugs? There may be left-over stock in some warehouses though? For a while i was buying up local bike shops inventory on the B8ES. There seem to be Chinese copy cat versions out there so be leary and informed about that! NGK actually did a write-up how to detect a fake. Honda part# 98079-58840 is an option as it too is a NGK B8ES, just their equivalent assigned number. 

Wanted non-resistor plugs and didn't want to take a chance of ending up with fakes, so I went with the ND W24ESU plugs for my Z1.
And when Rick Stetson machined and built my engine back in the 80's those are the plugs he recommended.  I figure a racer from the New England drag racing hall of fame knew what worked.    

sf4t7 wrote:

Wanted non-resistor plugs and didn't want to take a chance of ending up with fakes, so I went with the ND W24ESU plugs for my Z1.
And when Rick Stetson machined and built my engine back in the 80's those are the plugs he recommended.  I figure a racer from the New England drag racing hall of fame knew what worked.    

Straight from the factory service manual...

 

Nessism wrote:

sf4t7 wrote:

Wanted non-resistor plugs and didn't want to take a chance of ending up with fakes, so I went with the ND W24ESU plugs for my Z1.
And when Rick Stetson machined and built my engine back in the 80's those are the plugs he recommended.  I figure a racer from the New England drag racing hall of fame knew what worked.    

Straight from the factory service manual...

 

Not sure which model bike we're talking about but certainly on 650's that was the original recommendation however it was quickly changed to7's and 22's by a service bulletin as on normal road use 8's/24's were found to be too cold and easily fouled. 

Warren3200gt wrote:

Nessism wrote:

sf4t7 wrote:

Wanted non-resistor plugs and didn't want to take a chance of ending up with fakes, so I went with the ND W24ESU plugs for my Z1.
And when Rick Stetson machined and built my engine back in the 80's those are the plugs he recommended.  I figure a racer from the New England drag racing hall of fame knew what worked.    

Straight from the factory service manual...

 

Not sure which model bike we're talking about but certainly on 650's that was the original recommendation however it was quickly changed to7's and 22's by a service bulletin as on normal road use 8's/24's were found to be too cold and easily fouled. 

The OP has a KZ1000.  

We see ND W24ES-U plugs languishing cheap at bike shop closeouts & swap meets often because few people seem to know what they cross from / to or fit.  Same with correct SplitFire plugs.  Both run fine.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Gordone is correct.  Just unscrew the top on the plug on the left.  But from what I can see the plug on the right is fine.