TOPIC:

My owners manual says nothing about adjusting the timing or checking it. So is it even adjustable on my bike? The timing plate is not slotted so to even be adjustable?

It's not adjustable.  Just ride.

Nessism wrote:

It's not adjustable.  Just ride.

 

Ignorance is bliss...Lol!

Consider a Dynatek ignition upgrade.


!

 

Beaner242 wrote:

My owners manual says nothing about adjusting the timing or checking it. So is it even adjustable on my bike? The timing plate is not slotted so to even be adjustable?

 

Just slot the plate with a round file a few MM on each side.
I did this on my 750 so I could adjust the ignition timing. You can also twist the iron slug on the rotor if needed but that is not so adjustable later on.

Injected wrote:

Beaner242 wrote:

My owners manual says nothing about adjusting the timing or checking it. So is it even adjustable on my bike? The timing plate is not slotted so to even be adjustable?


 

Just slot the plate with a round file a few MM on each side.
I did this on my 750 so I could adjust the ignition timing. You can also twist the iron slug on the rotor if needed but that is not so adjustable later on.
 

Sounds reasonable enough...

How do you determine what the BTDC timing is set to when utilizing this modification?

You could static time it with an LED test light across the coil terminals (ground to switched side) when it loses the ground is when it fires (same as points opening)

Wookie58 wrote:

You could static time it with an LED test light across the coil terminals (ground to switched side) when it loses the ground is when it fires (same as points opening)
 

I am unaware of a provision on the stock ignition setup where the actual degree BTDC timing can be read.  It is "factory fixed" at 40 degrees, I do believe.
The Dyna 2000 rotor-scale indicates my engine is currently set at 38 degrees, both statically and with my timing light.

daveo wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

You could static time it with an LED test light across the coil terminals (ground to switched side) when it loses the ground is when it fires (same as points opening)

 

I am unaware of a provision on the stock ignition setup where the actual degree BTDC timing can be read.  If you use an adjustable timing light you can dial in the advance you want and use the TDC mark on the advancer. It is "factory fixed" at 40 degrees, I do believe. 40 degrees would be maximum advance at the top end of the advance curve - static or idle would be around 10 degrees 
The Dyna 2000 rotor-scale indicates my engine is currently set at 38 degrees, both statically and with my timing light. I'm not familiar with the Dyna 2000 but it will still have an advance curve (map) instead of using weights and springs it uses an electronic map which can be altered (back in the day tuners changed bob weight mass and spring tensions to tune ignition curves)

Wookie58 wrote:

daveo wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

You could static time it with an LED test light across the coil terminals (ground to switched side) when it loses the ground is when it fires (same as points opening)



 

I am unaware of a provision on the stock ignition setup where the actual degree BTDC timing can be read.  If you use an adjustable timing light you can dial in the advance you want and use the TDC mark on the advancer. It is "factory fixed" at 40 degrees, I do believe. 40 degrees would be maximum advance at the top end of the advance curve - static or idle would be around 10 degrees 
The Dyna 2000 rotor-scale indicates my engine is currently set at 38 degrees, both statically and with my timing light. I'm not familiar with the Dyna 2000 but it will still have an advance curve (map) instead of using weights and springs it uses an electronic map which can be altered (back in the day tuners changed bob weight mass and spring tensions to tune ignition curves)

 

I do have a adjustable timing light but don't really need it on the 750 street bike. Just slotting for a few degrees each way is not dangerous, you can tune by "ear" but its better to use a timing light. Being able to run advanced or retarded is a bonus, most times its better to dial it back as it runs cooler and starts easier.

Stock ignitions are not setup to run at 40 degrees, that is a race bike setting. Maximum recommended for 2 valve air cooled heads with single plug per cylinder is 38 degrees.
Stock fixed setups are more likely set at 36 degrees or less.

Drag racers remove the springs and weights then weld the advancer in a fixed position (usually 40 degrees) Dyna also sell these fixed rotors that eliminate the advancer, racers often make there own copies utilizing the stock Dyna rotor magnet. The slots on the Dyna back plate are then further enlarged as necessary.

I was able to run 50-55 degrees advanced with a Dyna S setup so I could fire alcohol in my drag bike.