TOPIC:

I did a sanity check on the valve clearance - they were all on the low end of the spec, thankfully.

I did have to peel off the old valve cover gasket in pieces because it was so glued to the head. I grumbled about how I hate when people use RTV on gaskets because gaskets are designed a specific way to prevent leaks on their own. However, my cover is leaking a good amount of oil with a brand new.

I checked the bolt torque of on the cover and they were all tightened to the spec (90 in-lbs).

Do I need to use RTV with my valve cover gasket? If so, do I need to scrap my current gasket even though there is only 10miles of use on it? Or can I just take the cover off and RTV it and move on with my life?

Also: are there any catastrophic issues with leaking oil at the valve cover other than simply consuming oil?

You dont need rtv. A smear of grease will both help sealing and also aid removal next time the valve cover is off enabling being able to reuse the same gasket.

The gasket should not need any sealer. The rubber plugs could use a smear around the curve and a dab where the plug meets the gasket surface.

Leaking oil will eventually get blown all over the bike.

If your gasket surfaces are clean, and your end-plugs are in good order (not old, cracked, and hard), it shouldn't leak when the gasket is installed dry. I use a tiny amount of non-hardening sealant (permatex no.2) around the plugs, as a little can weep from around the joins there.

If you do have leaks, it might be with checking your breathers. If the crankcase breathers are blocked then crankcase pressure can cause gaskets to leak.

I've owned my 1977 KZ650-C1 since it was new and never used anything on valve cover gasket and never had a leak. Ed

Valve clearances tighten with mileage as the valves sink into the head. By virtue of the fact that your valves are on the tight side now that means you need to be diligent about checking them in a few thousand miles to assure the valves don't tighten down too much, leading to valves that don't close and burn.

Nessism wrote: Valve clearances tighten with mileage as the valves sink into the head. By virtue of the fact that your valves are on the tight side now that means you need to be diligent about checking them in a few thousand miles to assure the valves don't tighten down too much, leading to valves that don't close and burn.

See, I was thinking that the valves would wear causing them to increase in clearance over time. The cylinder 1 valves are both on the low end of the spec for intake and exhaust (0.1mm intake/0.15mm exhaust). I have good compression (150PSI) in that cylinder but it runs hot. I'm very confused.