looks like i gotta do some shiming..
#4 pop-ing through the carb and low comp on all. pulled the cover and checked the lash and all are almost tight with #4 having dead zero on a cold motor. #1-#3 all have a clearance of 0.01mm. on the intake cam. same for exhaust cam. took base measurements (with all being almost zero not much to have to remember) TDC'D the motor...took out one cam gear retaining bolt on each cam and wire tied the chain to the gear and removed the idler. (so i wouldnt have to count pins and keeps it simple) pulled the cams loose and gently moved them clear of the buckets and pulled all the shims. #1 -255,#2-265,#3-280 and #4-270 on the intakes. #1-270,#2-265,#3-265 and #4-275 an the exhausts. with all being so tight i figure a going down 5 on each shim. 255 to 250, 280 to 275,...so on. i thought i might just swap around the few i had that match what i need ..meaning i have a 265 and a 270. i need to go down 5 on the 270 so i could swap a 265 in its place but i noticed that there are some signs of wear on the shims..with a couple i would say are a lil excessive. with my automotive experience i understand cam break in and cam wear patterns so i think this is prob not a good idea. so i am trying to find where to get some shims. i dont have a mic big enough to check the cam lobes. and am wondering if i should replace the cams now as well. i suspect i could use a dial indicator to check the lobes. does anyone know the specs on the stock cams..or should maybe i just replace them now and not even bother with the math? i am glad to see the valves tight though and not a bigger compression issue. i swapped the shims around did a leak down on #4 and seems to hold fairly decent...comp went from 80 to 120 on that one but i didnt do the rest yet. so the rings seem to be ok..(good news for an old junkyard motor). i am up late and googleing for shim kits. ahhhh... the plot thickins everytime wanna ride
![:) :)](/media/kunena/emoticons/smile.png)
ya know anyone who sells shims cheap?