TOPIC:

I purchased my 82 KZ 1000 from a friend and it has been setting for a while. I took the tank off and did not note where all the vacuum hoses go, I know, smart move. One of the carbs has the vacuum line capped off but the other three should have lines going to them. The tank has a place to attach a hose to the Gas gauge unit, and two places on the petcock, one for the fuel and the other should be a vacuum line. Can anyone tell me how the lines should be hooked up or give me a site as to where to find this information? THANK YOU

Try WiredGeorge's website, lots of good info!!!

www.wgcarbs.com

His site helped me straighten out my vacum lines.

The vacuum ports on the carbs that I show in my BS series carb connect document on my web site are typically capped with 7/32" vacuum caps because many owners have removed the emissions equipment from their bikes. On MOST emission equipped bikes, the #2 vacuum port is connected to the petcock via a hose. It is very important that this hose not be cracked and not leak. Leaks ANYWHERE in the carb system create too much air and upset the air/fuel mixture; especially the idle and if a hose like this leaks, the bike won't idle at the proper speed. I generally cap the other vacuum ports but on a STOCK bike WITH emissions equipment, #3 will be capped from the factory and #1 and #4 will have hoses connected with go to a tee. From there tee there will be a hose to a vacuum switch which actuates the reed valves which are up in your valve cover. The reed valves are covered by plates which have a hose joining them with a tee in the center. This is a large diameter hose; about 1". The hose goes back to the airbox. This is to route unburned crud that escapes when the reed valves are open to your air filter where in theory, it is sucked into the intake and burned. The unburned stuff comes from incomplete combustion... the reed valves are atop 1/2" holes in the cylinder which sit over your combustion chambers. The holes come out right by the exhaust vavles. When vacuum from the carbs actuates the mechanism that opens the reed valves, these guys pop open and unburned crud swirls around the bike and ends up supposedly being burned again. In practice, most owners just remove the BIG 1" hoses, the actuating can where the vacuum is hooked and the hoses leading to it and just plug 1&4 vacuum ports. You also have to plug (use Black Permatex) the snouts where the big hoses were connected above the reed valves. Leave the reed valves in place as they have rubber sealing gaskets unless you buy "block-off plates" from a company like APE who makes some pretty billet covers. If you don't and the bike hiccups, the reed valves could otherwise blow open and the combustion chambers would be momentarily open to the air through the unblocked snouts and flames WILL come out the snouts. Since they are under your gas tank and coils I suspect it is better to put some Permatex in the snouts.

Is there anything wrong with running a hose from the valve on the right to the one on the left, and sealing them off that way?

Not at all... I have a smog head on one of my Z1 engines I use in one of my "76" carb test bikes and I don't use the hose going from one to the other because when you remove a smog head valve cover off, the snouts are hard enough to clear the cam chain idler when you pull the valve cover to the rear... plugging them just makes taking them off easier but if you pulled the hose off and out of the way, it would be simple enough to get the valve cover off.