In this situation, doing the minimum necessary is the best coarse. First is to hone the guide using a 7mm hone... just a clean up to see if scratches will come out. If they don't or you end up with a sloppy fit, you will need to replace the guide. If you need to replace, consult a couple more manuals to see what general procedures are recommended. You are more likely to do damage if you do it cold I think.
If the hone works, then clean the valve. If it cleans, that is good... just install the valve and perhaps a light lapping on all the valves.
If the valve doesn't clean, replace it. If replaced, you will need to check the stem length and possibly grind the valve. For a new valve, first try lapping it and then check the seating with machinists' dye. I find using machinists' dye more informative than filling the combustion chamber with the fluid of your choice and checking for long term leakage. If lapping does the trick, it means you are about good to go. If it doesn't, the seat will need to be touched up with the final stone (of the three stones) to reclaim the surface angle. At this point, you will need to measure the stem length.
If you are interested in all new valves, I seem to recall the Dennis Kirk outlet store had bunches of them on eBay not too long ago that didn't sell. You might want to call their outlet store as they had enough on sale for quite a few "sets" of both intake and exhaust, as memory serves and the auction price was reasonable.