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Horse power 2 the rear... 25 Oct 2005 16:58 #4220

  • kz-mtd
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How do I get horse power two the rear while maintaining streetabilty?:blink:My bike is a 1977kz1000(LTD):whistle:

Post edited by: kz-mtd, at: 2005/10/25 20:00

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Horse power 2 the rear... 25 Oct 2005 19:24 #4274

  • GargantuChet
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One thing I've learned is that neutral is bad for power delivery. Shift out of neutral, and those ponies will hit the rear wheel easily!

:silly:

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Horse power 2 the rear... 25 Oct 2005 19:31 #4277

  • KZQ
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Hey kz-mtd,
Streetability=STOCK. That equation costs most folks a lot of time and dollars to come to appreciate. I'm not saying that custom setups are bad, but I am saying that if you expect to get on it and ride stick with STOCK.
KZCSI
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1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100
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1985 ZN1300

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Horse power 2 the rear... 25 Oct 2005 19:48 #4284

  • steell
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Or keep a stock bike around to ride while you spend megabucks on your streetfighter :D
KD9JUR

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Horse power 2 the rear... 25 Oct 2005 22:07 #4318

  • nads.com
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put in a 1045 kit that bumps compression and get aftermarket cams degreed with 104 lobe centers. This setup will be more streetable than what u have and give plenty of power to the rear wheel. Use only slightly larger jets and the torque band will be excellent throughout the power range.

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Horse power 2 the rear... 25 Oct 2005 22:10 #4319

  • twowheeledterror
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GargantuChet wrote:

One thing I've learned is that neutral is bad for power delivery. Shift out of neutral, and those ponies will hit the rear wheel easily!

:silly:


hahahahaha :laugh:

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Horse power 2 the rear... 17 Nov 2005 23:44 #8779

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if you want to be practical,park your bike and buy a volvo! try a nitrous system it only works when you hit the button

Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/11/18 03:27

Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/11/18 03:27

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Horse power 2 the rear... 18 Nov 2005 05:10 #8792

  • RollingStock
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wireguy wrote:

if you want to be practical,park your bike and buy a volvo! try a nitrous system it only works when you hit the button

Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/11/18 03:27<br><br>Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/11/18 03:27



ya if hes got alot of money.... wet kits arent cheap..


lighter rims, swingarm, aftermarket spockets, better chain, exhuast, bigger jets, filter pods, better coils, plug wires, plugs

those are just sum of the bolt ons. u can also was port the head, bored the motor, cams, turbo
73 z1900 street nitrous drag bike(powered but honda)
83 kz750 turbo street fighter project

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Horse power 2 the rear... 18 Nov 2005 05:42 #8794

  • wiredgeorge
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Honestly, if you are a decent wrench, tune the bike up per a shop manual, add the "coil power from relay" mod to get a hotter spark and add some CV carbs, with good quality free flow air filters and good quality 4 into 1. That will wake your engine up and the bike will feel like it has 10-15 hp more than it does now. (I said feel like). The 77 LTD carburetion was way lean and doesn't allow the stock bike to run as it should. Most folks will then go cheap and buy low end air filters and pipe... if you get good quality stuff, and have a hotter spark, the bike will run pretty good.

If jackrabbit starts are your thing, change the sprockets at the same time...

Once you begin internal mods, first thing is bumping the compression and adding a Dyna 2000 igniter. Problem here is that you are spending $700-800 for the next step in horsepower. To keep it streetable, the next step up in compression is mid 10s:1 and keep plenty of meat on the cylinder liners by staying with a moderate bore... 1045cc sounds reasonable as has been suggested.

The first part of the horsepower you want is pretty easy and cheap, the second stage gets more pricey and after that, you are doing stuff that will require engine strengthening (bottom end) and gets VERY pricey and makes a modern sport bike look like a great deal! The new ZRX1400 is going for about $12K and will put out 200hp at the crank according to the bike rags.
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Horse power 2 the rear... 18 Nov 2005 22:56 #8968

  • wireguy
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yeah but its still cheaper than porting a head and a big bore kit,and he doesnt have to tear the whole bike apart to do it.and will be totally drivable when the system is off

Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/11/28 22:23

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