TOPIC:

I'm not sure if this is the proper forum to post this in. Please move if it isn't - it's been a long time since I've been here (former KZ750 owner).

My friend is going to look at a 1979 KZ1000 later today and I was hoping to get any tips about this bike or things to watch out for. The only mechanical issue the owner has told him is that it has a small leak from the tachometer cable, is this a common thing - easy fix?

Any gotchas with this bike, stuff to watch out for? Thanks!

Of course the usual things, missing parts, repaint meaning most probably wrecked at some time. The first thing to look at on a "1979" is that it "is" actually a 1979. This does not apply to LTDs, but 95 percent of all "1979" KZ1000s I've seen advertised are actually roached out 1978 models. The 1979s other than the LTD are the MK2 or ST. Quite a few STs still around going pretty reasonable. Any decent MK2 is worth a good amount of money.
n8r wrote:

I'm not sure if this is the proper forum to post this in. Please move if it isn't - it's been a long time since I've been here (former KZ750 owner).

My friend is going to look at a 1979 KZ1000 later today and I was hoping to get any tips about this bike or things to watch out for. The only mechanical issue the owner has told him is that it has a small leak from the tachometer cable, is this a common thing - easy fix?

Any gotchas with this bike, stuff to watch out for? Thanks!

Is there any guide to figuring out exactly which model / year the bike is?

look at the rear footpeg brackets and check serial number on frame against title for starters.

Just look at the sticker on the headstock behind the headlight, anything made from 7/78 through 6/79 is a 79 model. The VIN number is on that sticker also, and you can determine the model from that (LTD/Standard).

According to Zedder an LTD VIN number will start out as KZTOOB, and the Standard will be KZTOOA.

zedder.com/msg1.htm

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/03/28 19:17

I don't think there are any weak points associated with KZ's. They are heavily over engineered which accounts for there strangle hold on drag racing till the GS 4-valve head gained development time. Bear in mind it is a 25+ year old bike and might be in need of extensive rebuild. Parts to some extent are getting scarce. If it does turn out to be a MKII then it is worth more than a none MKII. Over the course of 25+ years there may have been some butchering to the electrical system and some mods done haphazardly (ie: pods with incorrect jetting). Do a compression check and give all bearings a push/pull. Look for old worn electrical tape on connections.

Don't forget the stuff that applies to any bike you're looking at...

I don't buy running bikes but have helped out a few folks. Have a nifty new stethescope for the next inspection

In no particular order, for running bikes.

0)Earl and two guitars. AKA oil and two good tires. A sign that the bike had some care. A 'good' tire is one not showing cord. Check the sprockets while you're down there. Smell oil for gas.

1)DO NOT buy a bike in the rain. If you do multiply however good it looks at the time by 0.3!

2)If it's got more than one cylinder and "it runs" and you don't have a good enough ear to tell...feel all the pipes.
Cold=not running. Quality of running may be assessed thusly. Apply equal size wads of spit to each pipe. On a properly running bike they should sizzle away in the same time.

3)You should be able to get both wheels in the same plane without bending or using a torch.

4)If you're musically inclined, hold your hand at the end of the pipe(s). All pulses should feel the same. If you're not, do it anyway and furrow your brow. This makes the seller think you know what you're doing. Discretely smell your hand afterwards. You'll know if it's rich, lean, burning oil, recently been full of MMO.

5)Look for rust on fork tubes, spokes, leaking out of swing arm bushing or neck, & at welds. Be leery of a bike with fresh welds.


I'll save seller evaluation, negotiating, and inspecting non-runners for later.

Great tips Duck!