TOPIC:

Hi all - it's been a while, but I recently picked up a $100 1979 KZ400H-1 LTD with 19K on the clock that the PO says has been in storage for about 25 years and was wondering about the service manual - is it the same for the KZ440?  

I've heard a lot of good things about that engine and I'll have many questions when I finally get this beauty up on the slab - like where to find a decent seat - but I'm open to any observations and advice right now; thanks! 

Nice  project 
PLEASE  next time click insert all when installing  pictures before clicking submit
Dave

Ooops - Sorry Dave, My Bad. Like I said, it's been a while...

Thanks; this site was invaluable when it came to restoring my KZ650 so I thought I would inquire here; Can I use the 440 manual for this bike, or is it a separate bird?

I would get the correct manual.  KZ400.com has one that's broken down into 15 or 20 pdfs & includes the 400-H1 supplement.
Warning: the forums at the kz400 site may harm your computer. I don't know if this is still a problem, so beware.
For a hard copy most Kawasaki FSMs have a model application chart on the back cover, so make sure you motorcycle is listed.
There are separate H1 supplement manuals on EB, but also the 78-79 FSM that includes the supplement for your motorcycle.

Here's one that covers the B1/B2/C1/H1.  EB item number:  353539586619

Actually I lucked out and found a hardcopy of the KZ400 shop manual online for $30, and downloaded the supplement so I should be good to go as far as repair literature goes; but yesterday as I was doing a little triage and spraying all the nuts and bolts down with PB, the left side chain cover and adjuster cover gave me some attitude and I was forced to drill out two screws on the case. I eventually got the screw heads off, but was then confronted by this:
 

The nut on the adjuster will turn with a socket, but the screw in the middle turns with it and just will not turn with a screwdriver, to the point of being dangerously close to stripping out. And of course everything is rusted up really well. That screw shaft on the right is also really rusted in there and won't budge even with the application of vise grips.  I've tried heat, brute force, even an impact driver on the nut/screw assembly. Any tips? It's the last holdout to keeping me from seeing how it looks behind the cover.

Also, just an FYI, but a few years ago I discovered this trick to getting rusted-in screws to release - clamp a vise grip on the shaft of your screwdriver (yes, those are JIS screwdrivers; they're the only thing I use on Japanese bikes), add a little valve polishing compound for extra grip on the head, push in really hard with the screwdriver and use the vise grip to turn the screw:
 

Nine times out of ten (there's Always One that puts up a fight!) they'll release with a little 'snap'. 

I would soak that adjuster in PB a couple of times per day for two or three more days and then bring a heat gun to bear on it

Ahh, but Wait, There's More...I tried to get the boots off the manifold today, and of course there is Always One - it wound up snapping off in the head, which resulted in a lot of colorful invective from me...
 
I'm thinking a left-hand screw, maybe...? Tap a little hole in there and twist it in far enough so I can get a good grip on it...any ideas? 

The rest of my explorations were pretty uneventful - - Air Box - "Aww, NUTS!" 


...and the carb - meh; a carb kit; it'll freshen right up!

You need an impact driver

if you have access to a welder try welding a nut to the bolt for the carb holder. If not I’d grind it flat, center punch it and use left handed drill bits. Starting small to larger. harbor freight sell them. 

 

I've only had minimal success with impact drivers, out of the three I have in the tool chest including the Vessel Impacta; sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Is that a JIS impact driver? The ones I have, the bits are usually too big, but like I said, they either work or they don't. Funny, a welder is pretty much the ONE tool I don't have!  And I don't know if there's going to be enough room for a drill in there, but that's a good idea - worth a shot.