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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  Couple things....  cam chain was very loose... would have
Remove top idler gear, check it spins free, no up/down movement.
 

Thanks Mikaw and 73.  This along with a couple other things has me a little concerned about the PO being inside this engine.  The other is... something's not right with the cam chain tensioner.  After I removed the tensioner I tried pushing against the ... for lack of a better word... flap that the chain rides against, the thing the tensioner pushes against to tighten up the chain.   So pushing against this "flap" it doesn't make contact with the timing chain.  Anyone have any ideas what's going on here? 
 

See diaphragm. Tensioner pushes against an idler wheel #10. The flap you talking about is on the front exhaust side. It’s number 22. It keeps the cam chain from digging into the aluminum block.

 

#10 is what I was referring to.  Pushing against it with my finger, it should make contact with the chain but it doesn't.  I'm wondering if #22 either isn't in there or isn't aligned properly though.  I'm going to have to pull the cams so I can see in there.  This PO has me a little concerned. Supposedly he was a Harley mechanic but isn't "Harley Mechanic" kind of an oxymoron? 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Thanks Mikaw and 73.  This along with a couple other things has me a little concerned about the PO being inside this engine.  The other is... something's not right with the cam chain tensioner.  After I removed the tensioner I tried pushing against the ... for lack of a better word... flap that the chain rides against, the thing the tensioner pushes against to tighten up the chain.   So pushing against this "flap" it doesn't make contact with the timing chain.  Anyone have any ideas what's going on here? 


Robb,
Do you have the skill and tools to disassemble the complete motorcycle and check everything ?
Did you get a speedo with the bike ?
Any clue to miles ?
With a fifty year old motorcycle it is common for lots of things to need repair.
There are four idlers in the engine, the rubber can disintegrate, the engine needs to come apart to replace them.
Mikaw and me are the Michigan contingent, there are lots of talented people here that can advise you.

Have you checked cam timing? Before removing the cams the engine needs to be at TBC. But you mentioned how loose the chain is. I’d try to get the idler back on the chain and reinstall the tensioner. Get some tension on the chain before you rotate the engine. Your in a tough spot. Maybe a better mechanic than I can tell you how to safely remove the cams. I’d wait till experts chime in. 

The engine doesn't need to be at TDC to remove the camshafts,  just loosen all the camshaft caps a little at a time in a crossing pattern and you will have a harmonious outcome!  You will need to have the crankshaft at #1&4 TDC to reinstall the cams.  The engine is easy to turn with the cams removed,  but you need to take care not to kink the chain on the crankshaft sprocket while turning it, nice to have about three hands. As has been mentioned, not knowing the mileage it is very possible the rubber on the various idlers and rollers is very likely very hard or disintegrated,  and #22 in the schematic is very often broken,  usually the result of running with a loose camchain. Also hard to know what the Hardly Mechanic did while is was in there, he painted sh#t ORANGE for God's Sake!

Mike
 

I did check the timing...  it's off.  First time I turned it over by hand to line up the marks, it jumped the chain. That's when I realized something was off with the tensioner.

Thanks Mike, I was referring to the FSM procedure. Good to know they can be removed as is. 

wrote:

I did check the timing...  it's off.  First time I turned it over by hand to line up the marks, it jumped the chain. That's when I realized something was off with the tensioner.

I’d say it’s time for a rebuild. Hopefully you didn’t bend a valve already. Not the end of the world though. 

wrote:

The engine doesn't need to be at TDC to remove the camshafts,  just loosen all the camshaft caps a little at a time in a crossing pattern and you will have a harmonious outcome!  You will need to have the crankshaft at #1&4 TDC to reinstall the cams.  The engine is easy to turn with the cams removed,  but you need to take care not to kink the chain on the crankshaft sprocket while turning it, nice to have about three hands. As has been mentioned, not knowing the mileage it is very possible the rubber on the various idlers and rollers is very likely very hard or disintegrated,  and #22 in the schematic is very often broken,  usually the result of running with a loose camchain. Also hard to know what the Hardly Mechanic did while is was in there, he painted sh#t ORANGE for God's Sake!

Mike

LOL... so funny Mike but yeah, that orange shit really makes you wonder about the guy.  I don't want to speak il of the dead though.  He died last January and I'm starting to suspect this bike was a work in progress and someone, his son in law who I bought it from probably, may have come in and thrown everything together in order to make it look good to sell.  They did misrepresent it when I asked if it was running.  Got some BS about it ran 2 years ago when it was put away or something.  Then I looked under the side covers and saw it had no electrical system or harness.  Still, for 7Gs I knew what I was getting in to.  I'm hoping the dead Harley mechanic husband in fact did know what he was doing and the bike was still apart when he died.... and that he just had really bad taste.