TOPIC:

Here is a link to the engine stand I was looking at. This is also probably the premier site for KZ parts.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2731

Thank, KZ77! An engine stand is a great suggestion, and the one you recommended seems like a great tool. Although I don't want to be cheap with the re-build, the $170 price tag on the stand is a definite expense.

Ditto on Harbor Freight. I have an actual Harbor Freight store here in Lansing, Michigan which is a pretty dangerous thing. Costs me at least $50 to get out of there every time I walk in the door.

drayman86 wrote:

Thank, KZ77! An engine stand is a great suggestion, and the one you recommended seems like a great tool. Although I don't want to be cheap with the re-build, the $170 price tag on the stand is a definite expense.

Yeah, right......

After a brief search, the above referenced stand is a pretty good deal.

Have you look at the Project-79-1000
that fatcow has and how he made a stand for his motor I am going to do the same with my motor.

Well, I spent a couple of hours in the basement after work today and removed the wheels, forks, swing arm, and triple tree. Surprised at the individual loose bearings in the tree. I'm enjoying this tremendously.



Should be able to get the engine out of the frame and maybe torn down this weekend. Then it's on to abrasive blasting the frame and finding a chrome shop in town, along with a powder coat paint shop.

Will post more pics soon. Thanks to all members who have replied to this thread.

Post edited by: drayman86, at: 2007/02/08 11:59

if you didn't know. the easiest way to get the engine out is to lay the bike on it's side, unbolt the engine and pick the frame up off the engine. this is probably obvious but just trying to be helpful.

also make sure to drain the oil first if there is any so you don't make a mess.

dnestell wrote:

if you didn't know. the easiest way to get the engine out is to lay the bike on it's side, unbolt the engine and pick the frame up off the engine. this is probably obvious but just trying to be helpful.

Hey, nothing is obvious; I'm a newbie! Thanks.

To all other members; PLEASE. Never, ever hesitate to post advice to this thread, even if it's critical. I know any posts are meant to be helpful, which is the spirit in which I will receive advice from forum members.

If you use the above trick (laying the bike on it´s side and lifting the frame off) here are a few tips:

Due to the fact that the left front engine mount is welded onto the left downtube, the engine can only come out to the right, which means you have to lay the bike on it´s right side to lift the frame off.

What I like to do is to remove all mounting hardware from the right side, lay the frame/engine down on a rug or some cardboard, then remove the mounting hardware from the left side. If you remove all the mountings first, the engine might shift in the frame when you lay it down and possibly get stuck. Check that the long engine bolts that go all the way through come out to the left (nuts on the right side), if not just remove them before you lay it down, the left front mount will be enough to hold the engine in place.

It´s also a good idea to place a wooden block under the clutch cover to prevent the engine from tipping over when you lift the frame off.

To reinstall the engine just reverse the process: lay the engine on it´s side (again use a wooden block for support), place the frame over the engine,install the right side mountings and stand the frame up. You can also choose to install the front fork, swingarm, rear shocks and wheels while the bike is lying down and stand it up on the wheels.

Btw, here are a couple of pics from when I reinstalled my engine after painting my frame a couple of years ago:







Post edited by: OnkelB, at: 2007/02/08 13:08

Thanks, OnkelB. Now I'll now exactly how to separate the engine from the frame.

I realized I have 1978 650 C. The guy who gave me the bike also provided an ancient Michigan title that lists the model year as 1978. I also found some information on another website that references engine number and frame numbers to model years. Looks like mine is, in fact, a 1978.

Here's what I'm down to:

Was also able to verify that, in fact, a hole had been fried through one of the pistons by that dude who used high octane aircraft fuel. (Suppose I should thank him; if it wasn't for Mr. Speed Demon gotta-make-my-bike-go-faster, I wouldn't have this bike):



Post edited by: drayman86, at: 2007/02/08 20:16

Post edited by: drayman86, at: 2007/03/23 14:22

Am thoroughly enjoying and learning from this link.

But "high octane aircraft fuel" burning a hole in the piston is new to me. However, a lot is new to me, and I could be so very wrong about this. .

Reason for questioning is only to suggest possible other reasons including: improper ign timing; spark plug heat range; main jet size; service fuel level; leaking intake manifold; and maybe others I'm overlooking. All with the idea of assuring these other reasons are checked and nullified to prevent your being unpleasently surprised with another hole while using normal hi-test.

Patton wrote

Reason for questioning is only to suggest possible other reasons including: improper ign timing; spark plug heat range; main jet size; service fuel level; leaking intake manifold; and maybe others I'm overlooking.

Could be the reasons listed above, too. I'm not familiar with spark plug heat range and service fuel level. Can you expand, please. Thanks.

Other possibilities for overheating would include a clogged main jet (even if otherwise sized correctly) or a clogged bleed pipe (between main jet and carb bore) or loose or broken clamp holding carb to intake manifold. Intake manifold leaks may be aggravated by using pod filters which lack support for carbs on the intake side.

Spark plug heat range. Your engine has a factory recommended spark plug. For example, the Z1 and KZ900 use NGKB8ES plugs. For racing, it is okay to use the next range colder plug NGKB9ES which runs cooler at continuous high speeds. For extended lower speed, the hotter running NGKB7ES plug may do better at non-fouling. A spark plug more than one range hotter can likely burn a hole in the piston.
Mister Speed Demons sometimes wrongfully believe and associate a "hotter" plug with "hotter performance" when actually the next range colder spark plug might be better. IMO it is best to tune for the showroom spark plug, and not try to compensate for some mal-adjustment by going to a different heat range spark plug (except as a last resort -- and then only by one heat range). The "plug chop" is a diy test method for reading the plugs to help determine what's happening inside the combustion chamber. And running too rich or too lean is usually not the plug's fault (more likely ignition, compression, or carb issues). Not unusual for plugs to "load up" a little during slow in town riding, and readily cleared later by a quick blast through the gears.


Service fuel level. The fuel level in the float bowl as regulated by the float which shuts off incoming fuel by pushing the float needle into its seat. If the fuel level inside the float bowl is too low, the resulting fuel mixture into the engine may be too lean (engine runs too hot). And vice versa, if the fuel level inside the float bowl is too high, the resulting fuel mixture into the engine may be too rich (plug fouling). IMO the clear tube method is a good easy diy test which may be performed with carbs on or off the bike. The step-by-step proceedure is detailed in several other threads, but let us know if you need help with it.