Non-KZ Electrical question

Referencing the (hopefully) attached file, can I remove the PTO switch and the Clutch switch (both number 4), thus disabling the entire yellow circuit, and then bridge the orange wires at each of those switch locations? Will I have a functioning system, or will I have created a system with no way to shut down the ignition once the engine is running?
The Seat switch (#10) was removed years ago.

 

Motorcycles to Lawn Maintenance, ha. I do a gaggle of these Kohler/Briggs and Kawasaki single and twins. Seems You have a single from the schematic. Those safety switches come in several variations, normally closed or open. Depending on your terrain and how youthful you feel might consider keeping the seat switch for immediate shut-off. In case you're mowing down/up an embankment and lose control and fall off. The "afterfire solenoid" shunts the main jet in carb from getting any fuel whereas grounding the coil. Just disabling the ground to magneto will result in a bit of time before the solenoid does it's job, if still connected and energized. What kind of engine are You working on?    

It is an old Briggs I/C thumper. The terrain is about as flat and smooth as yards get, save for a drainage ditch across the front. I do need to get off the mower from time to time to deal with gates and random small limbs.
The clutch/brake switch seems like overkill since it is hydrostatic drive.

Neither of the remaining switches are particularly burdensome, but the switches are 25 years old, and may be nla.

What does drive me to the brink of becoming an axe murderer is my wife's new Chebby. Can't even back out of the garage unless the seatbelts in the occupied seats are buckled. 

What are you trying to achieve, bridging the orange wires on both switches will by-pass all the "safety circuits" !! why do you want to remove the switches ?

Bypassing them is my goal because they are annoying. I would also like to have a plan in place should one of them fail and a new one is not available.

Highly doubtful those DPDT PTO and Clutch/Brake switches will become obsolete, just made too many of them. You didn't mention "brand" of machine but a lot of those were made by MTD, parent company. Sears/Craftsman, Troybilt, Murry, Dynamark, etc etc just thru their sticker on it. Sometimes they can be tricky to access, might have to drop the deck but not always. Some are fixed position, some are sliding adjustable with a couple screws. Seems the two "might" be the same part number. One is PTO but don't think you have an electric clutch just manual belt tension drive?  

Murray, manual pto, non-adjustable.. Switch access is only mildly annoying, no deck removal needed.

TexasKZ wrote:

Bypassing them is my goal because they are annoying. I would also like to have a plan in place should one of them fail and a new one is not available.

You can bridge the orange wires if you want to by-pass the "safety circuits" but I would leave the yellows as they are. They control the fuel shut off in the carb that prevents carb flooding when parked and stop the motor "running on" when switched off hot

I wasn't joking Texas, have a dedicated pile of the Kohler CH, Kawasaki FH and Honda GX/GC engines lingering in the garage and more in another building. Note the crappy Kohler John Deere applied to a this machine. Also do the Magnum Kohler early/late versions, there is a difference. Need a part, let me know and Happy Mowing, year round!! Better You then I!     

That is quite a collection.

Was never intentional. Just have a retired Buddy that has a penchant for the JD lineup. He lives in the city and can't control himself nor wallet. He buys them super cheap, i repair them, he puts finished products on his busy street and peddles them. He doesn't need the money but keeps him busy. That's where i get all my mowers from to do what i need to do and absent of the "plastic" hoods. I don't care about the hoods, more for glamor and ya can't clean them. Also keeps the engines cooler.