first time trying bondo/custom emblems

mariozappa wrote:

When looking for the 'bondo spreaders'. Try to get the same color of the hardener, pink or yellow.
That color of the spreader is the right mix for the bondo. Too light, and it won't harden well or take longer. Too dark and it will harden up faster than you can imagine!

Aha! By jove, I think I've got it!

I've seen a whole rainbow of colored spreaders, and have seen - for the lack of a better term - pinkish or flesh-tone tinted spreaders.

Using the red hardner, WG is right - the bondo will go pinkish in color - and Mario is right - a decent ratio of hardener to bondo will match color to the pinkish spreaders well enough to use as a visual guide.

(edit: Auto Store canned bondo tends to be white. Pro-sized can contents can be white, light yellow, greenish, whatever. Different color bondos mixed with different color hardeners will be likewise mix to odd colors - but the "shade" idea of the mix applies...)

So, in effect - *everybody's right*... :laugh:

Utterly cool.

Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2006/11/24 16:48

I think WiredOOd's forehead is gonna need some bondo after slamming it against the desk a couple hundred times trying to get some oddball pic to post...

NOTE TO WIREMAN: Go for the flesh-tone spreaders, dOOd - it'll help you match the original color of your dome!

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

doh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:woohoo: :silly: :woohoo: :silly: :woohoo: :silly: i had some lead work pictures but i gotta learn to resize stuff when daughter aint around to save me!:blush: :whistle:

I am new to bodywork, I had heard about using JB weld to fix holes and scrapes in side covers. I was asking about this sort of thing in the "how to repaint your bike" thread, and was advised to use bondo. I didnt realise that it was cheap and easy (with some practice) to use.
For some background on my sidecovers specifically, they both blew off the bike due to rotten/missing grommets. I only found 1, and I ebayed another beat up (cheap)one without an emblem. (I was planning on making my own painted on emblems anyway...."KZX-650" using the ZX style font or something similar). the ebayed cover has a drill hole in it (dont ask me why...) and I need to fill in the indentations(from the original emblems) for a nice flat side cover(for my custom painted "KZX-650 emblems")
now for the funny part, I finally got around to trying the bond for the first time today, and being in a hurry, I was just following the directions I recieved on here, and didn't read the side of the can. you know, the part that (I now know) says :"Do not breath in fumes. Use in a well-ventilatedarea." you can see where this is going:laugh: . yup, I started mixing up some bondo in a small part of the basement, thinking "this stuff really smells, but I'll get used to it in a minute". a few more minutes into bondoing, and I had to take it outside. I got a really bad headache, felt sick, and kinda buzzed:laugh: but let me tell you, I'll be using this stuff outside from now on. those fumes had me messed up for awhile:laugh: now lets all have a good laugh, and hope this keeps another noob from making the same mistake I did!!
Scott

77KZ650 wrote:

I am new to bodywork...now for the funny part...you know, the part that (I now know) says :"Do not breath in fumes....a few more minutes into bondoing, and I had to take it outside. I got a really bad headache, felt sick, and kinda buzzed:laugh:

Ooooops...

:whistle: :blush: :dry: :pinch: :sick:

...forgot to mention that... :silly:

Pterosaur wrote:

kinda like that yeah:whistle: :laugh:

Most of the repairs to sidecovers I have undertaken were fixed with slow cure epoxy (NOT JB WELD!). Posts and scrapes. I use Mortite to form a dam over the area that needs repair and pour slow cure epoxy. Scuff area to be fixed first... Epoxy bond is very permanent. If you need to fix a post, get a wooden dowel and shape it (whittle) like one of the existing and put a dam of Mortite around it and pour some slow cure epoxy. This will set and affix the new post which will be much stronger than the original. Mortite can be found in many hardware stores and is essentially clay that doesn't stick to the work surface so it pulls right off epoxy. I guess I would consider Bondo on platic if there were a gouge or groove to be filled.

I can make the "KZX-650" or whatever paint masks you need. Make them all the time. Font, style, and size required.

Dan, I'm planning on using one of the the "ninja" styles of font. I havent decided on size yet, but I started working on something I could print, then trace onto tape and cut it out with a rasor blade. Ill post a pic of it when I get home, maybe you could see what it would need to look "factory" as its still in the beginning stages:)
Wired, Ill keep that stuff in mind if I ever break a post off. how well does it sand if used on scuffs compared to bondo?
Scott

this is the font style Im after

heres some crude stuff I put together, basically just trying to see what it might look like

Im also thinking about doing the same think to the tank as Im doing to the side covers(taking off the emblems and making it smooth with bondo) and making my own "kawasaki" painted emblem with this style font

Scott

Post edited by: 77KZ650, at: 2006/11/29 22:32

Epoxy sands a lot like the original plastic... the Bondo sands easier I expect. A slow cure epoxy is also likely stronger than the original plastic.