PAINT QUESTION

ive got a picture of the one ive got but i need to resize it.not much bondo slung around here,its used just for fine tuning not sculpting.:evil: this is on my kids 29 coupe.

Post edited by: wireman, at: 2006/08/24 15:28

i agree wireman, bondo is a last resort option but being w/o a decen mig my options are limited.

i think drotti got a lil more then he bargained for with this thread.i dont do it too often but i appologise for the hijack.

ron,
people are going to repaint regardless wether or not you feel they should. you got burned by a couple of bad painters and im sorry about your luck but there are some people who make a living from it and take pride in their work. and just so you know. the tools,paint,and supplies that todays painters use are the same quality that the mfc's use.(in most cases better)

if you want a decent pro repaint look for the guy who has everything to lose from a bad repaint.
maaco and the like dont have much to lose if your not happy with the results.
alot of jim and chuck body shops thrive on word of mouth alone.
i have a freind who owns a 32,000 sq.ft. shop and he doesnt advertise. he has small plaques that he gives to his customers free of charge to place in the back window when they take teir rods to shows.with that and word of mouth he brings in around 15 cars a month.

drotti, i hope you dont think bad of the members of kzr from the words of three.
there are ALOT of very knowledgable people on this site though not all get along with on another.

bottom line, its your bike and your going to make what you want. take advice, learn, listen and make the best of it.

sorry again if this thread got out of hand.
joe

I WORK AT A PLACE WHERE WE SELL CONSTRUCTION EQUIPMENT AND WE SELL THE CASE MANUFACTURE PRIMER THAT I GET FOR COST SO I USED THAT BUT IT DOES NOT SAY SANDABLE BUT I SPRAYED TWICE AND SANDED IN BETWEEN EACH THEN SPRAYED A THIRD TIME AND IT FEELS SMOOTH AND LOOKS SMOOTH DO I NEED TO SAND AGAIN BEFORE I PAINT SINCE ITS NOT A SANDABLE PRIMER.

if the surface is smooth and uniform you should be able to paint over it as long as theres a good "tooth.

check to make sure the paints wont react.

professional clearcoat on top of rattlecan lacquer paint?

i've just finished a rattlecan paint job on my bike. i intended it to be a rough mock up, and then take it to a shop for a professional paint and clearcoat. but turns out i like the bike just as it is.

can i have a professional clearcoat sprayed on top of the rattlecan lacquer paint, or are the two incompatible?

thx

edit: just found this. looks like it's doable, but any other thoughts still appreciated:

www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread...&highlight=clearcoat

Post edited by: duncan, at: 2006/09/04 16:34

del

JMKZHI wrote:

FYI. DupliColor states that enamel can be sprayed over lacquer but not vice-versa.
I'm considering testing their engine enamel on my tank - it was sprayed with the Truck & SUV acrylic lacquer.

For fuel resistance here are a couple of products that may be worth tryin':
Crystal-Glo or Clear coat from JeffsCycles.com ... Good luck. JMK.

thx for the links. that jeffcycles stuff looks good. i need both gloss clear and matte clear. i think i'll give them a call.

for the duplicolor engine enamel, you might be interested in this link:

www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=11044.0

the way i read it, if you heat cure the clearcoat, it turns yellow, and if you don't, there's no protection.

Well i finally finished painted the tank side covers and fender but i used a enamel with a reducer and hardener with my spray gun and compressor its been 2 days so far and if i push hard enough with my finger i can make a print how long does it take before i can put the tank back on iam afraid the seat will imprint the paint.also some bug got in the paint can i wetsand enamel then buff it,other than its got a nice glass finish looks good.Was i wrong to use enamel.

drotti,
there could be a few culprits in this.

too many coats
laying coats too thick.
laying too many coats w/o curing between types(primer/color/clear)
not enough catalyst
using a retarding reducer.

best bet would be to wait a week or two and check it again.
dont sand until it hardens.

Well mabey i put too thick and too many coats because i did what the paint said 1 part thinner and 1 part hardener to 8 parts paint,and after the first week i wetsanded with 600 then repainted last saturday about 3 coats each time, the mechanic where i work said enamel could take 7 even up to 30 days to cure. do you think i'll be okay if i wait or will it never be right.How can i tell if its hard enough so when i put the tank back on the seat won't damage the paint.

Post edited by: drotti2004, at: 2006/09/13 22:39

Post edited by: drotti2004, at: 2006/09/13 22:39

drotti2004 wrote:

Well mabey i put too thick and too many coats because i did what the paint said 1 part thinner and 1 part hardener to 8 parts paint,and after the first week i wetsanded with 600 then repainted last saturday about 3 coats each time, the mechanic where i work said enamel could take 7 even up to 30 days to cure. do you think i'll be okay if i wait or will it never be right.How can i tell if its hard enough so when i put the tank back on the seat won't damage the paint.

Post edited by: drotti2004, at: 2006/09/13 22:39<br><br>Post edited by: drotti2004, at: 2006/09/13 22:39

if its that soft i would go ahead and wait at least 2 weks and check it again. when its good and hard you shouldnt see an imprint if you press your fingernail into it(gently)

if your in a hurry to get the bike back together you can buy 3m two sided tape in 2" squares.
put the tape on the seat where the seat touches the tank and cover the tape with a small piece of felt or soft material. after a few weeks you should be able to remove it without any further problems.