3D printed dies-speed/ Tach assembly

3D Printed some dies to aid in re-assembling speedo and tachometer. 
 Disassembled, spruce up and re-assembled a KZ650 speedo today. I re-used the crimp ring.
 here's some pics and brief description of the process for anyone interested. 
Here's a before and after picture.   

Well done.

Just throwing a few pics in here. Stand by for a step by step break down of the process. Im working on it now.

Another finished pic.

The procedure described involves reusing the original crimp ring.
start by prying up the ring with a flathead screw driver from the crimped surface on back side of speedometer. Carefully work your way around the ring a few times until it is at about a 45° angle from flat. Then use a pliers with some decent teeth to continue standing the crimp edge up. Use tape on the face of pliers that is contacting front of the crimp(the rolled profile that your NOT unrolling). Tape it to prevent marring the crimp . Replace the tape or add another layer as you will.work through it and start scratching the ring.
 Be carefully not to apply to much force and split the crimp ring edge. 
 Eventually use 3 pair of pliers(get a helper!) To gently pull the ring down off the mating edge of the front and back halves. 
** BE WARNED: there is a thin rubber gasket between the 2 halves that is easy to tear up with screw driver or pliers. You'll need to reuse this gasket**
 The crimp ring, when removed will still have a bit of radius that needs to be flattened out in order to reinstall.

I used a 4" piece of aluminum round stock to work the crimp ring profile with a plastic mallet. Be careful not get carried away. Stay away from the 90° radius that contacts the speedo front half. Make sure that stays pretty!

**Reassembly will be posted further down.
Now for the fun "in between" stuff..... 😆 

We see here the separated halves. You can see the black gasket still on the front half along with the crimp ring (i had not flattened it out at this point).

Gently pull the rubber gasket from between the front outer shell ad the green internal light shield. Use a screw driver to GENTLY pry the two shells apart slightly to help get the gasket out easier.

I glass bead blasted the front shell, painted the inside, baked it at 200°f for 15 mns. Then used a 3D printed 90mm x 2mm paint mask to suspend the shell while I powdercoated it with some gloss black.
 400°f for 45mns( I just set the timer and walk away. 😆)
 I decided to paint the inside because it was easier than trying to powdercoat that area. 

**NOTE: When removing and reinstalling the clear front window; note the orientation of said piece. The gasket profile on the front and back of windows is not the same
 it only works when installed correctly. **

I used painters tape to keep the exterior from getting scraped when building the assembly and putting in lower  portion of die. Easy to get scratched when rebuilding.

Use the lower portion of die as an assembly jig.
 

Here's the dimensions for the upper and lower die parts. These are for final clamping/locking of the crimp ring.

I printed in PLA at 80% infill. Plenty strong enough.

Using the lower die as an assembly jig, I worked my way around the crimp ring, striking towards the speedo body to fold the edge over. Once it was folded over evenly, I worked my way around again- this time striking straight down to flatten the crimp ring.