Ah yes... those things can be a PITA. Seem to be made of case hardened peanut butter. That rusts.
If those screws are flat head, the head can be carefully drilled off, freeing the emblem from under the head but maybe leaving the threaded shank in the tank bracket.
What we're after is to free the emblem from under the head without enlarging the hole(s) in the emblem the screws pass through. Apply penetrant a few days prior to drilling.
Using a good, sharp cobalt left-twist bit the same diameter as the crest diameter screw threads, slowly drill into the head. Because the head is already stripped into a dish, the dish is already centered on the screw's shank. Take your time! Run the drill very slowly. What we're after here is to drill just the head of the screw off of it's shank, to release the emblem out from under the head. Then, if the screw didn't unscrew from it's hole during drilling (likely), the emblem can be lifted off of the remains of the screw shank that's still in the tank bracket. Because we're using a left-twist bit, the screw will often unscrew from the tank bracket bracket early in the process. If not, apply penetrant to the stub & let soak for a few days. Vise grips clamped to the stub & rocking CW and CCW gently will likely free it. Heat can help, but only use a hair dryer on low or med to not damage paint. If it still won't free, it can be drilled the rest of the way out slowly & carefully using the next size smaller bit that matches the root diameter of the screw threads.
Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
A biker looks at your engine and chrome.
A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.
1973 ('72 builds) Z1 x2
1974 Z1-A x2
1975 Z1-B x2
1993 CB 750 Nighthawk x2
2009 ST1300A
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