PJ1...?

I painted my brake calipers last summer with (new formula) PJ1. Ill soon be ready to put them on the bike and thought that maybe I should throw them in the oven to cure the paint. Does anybody know how long and at what volume I should set the oven to?
There was nothing on the can about cure time/temperature so I emailed PJ1 themselves but they must be too busy counting their money to answer emails.

Try calling them?...

480-991-8002
Customer Service:
Mon - Fri 9:00 - 5:00 PM

.........................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

The "NEW" PJ1 doesn't behave like the old stuff (they took out all the good bits ) and it doesn't like being baked anymore.
PJ1 never actually recommended baking it anyway, that is something I experimented with many years ago with good results which has now become common practice amongst restorers etc who have spread the word after reading my resto and project threads over the years .
With the original (Satin black ) I would lightly pre-heat the part (to sweat out any moisture), give it enough coats for the required finish (Thicker = Glossier) , let it cure overnight and then bake it until the surface visually wetted after which I let it cool naturally and slowly.
This gave a tough solvent/petrol resistant finish which looked very close to the original Kawasaki semi gloss black.
I have engines done like this which still look fresh after over 20 years of all weather riding.
The new PJ1 is awful and won't resist solvent or last very long whatever you do.
During extensive tests I have now found that Simoniz/Sperex Tough black or Wurth Satin are the closest thing to the old PJ1 and these respond well to baking
The Simoniz/Sperex is my prefered choice and is very close to the old PJ1, the results can be seen in my Z900 café racer thread.

After painting mine with Duplicolor brake calliper paint (rattlecan) & giving the parts a few days to cure at room temperature, I baked them in the oven at 150^o for 20 minutes, then 225^o for another 20 minutes. The stuff is supposed to withstand temps up to 500^o, so I probably could've gone higher.

PS: the paint has held up well but it peeled a little around the bleeder from brake fluid. after tightening the bleeder, I sprayed some of the paint into a cup & did a touch-up with a plastic model kit brush.

I baked some 'new' satin black PJ1 on some casings and it looked really good, not sure how it will withstand use when on a running motor.

The 'old' PJ1' was great, as above it lasts for years if prepped right. They certainly have changed the formulation I know.

Tyrell Corp wrote: I baked some 'new' satin black PJ1 on some casings and it looked really good, not sure how it will withstand use when on a running motor.

The 'old' PJ1' was great, as above it lasts for years if prepped right. They certainly have changed the formulation I know.

What temperature did you set it at and for how long?

I used PJ1 and baked it at 350n for an hour. Not sure if it was the old formula or the new.

Still looks great after 3 years

.

I put my prepped and degreased bits on aluminium foil under the grill until hot,, sprayed on a light tack coat, then a heavier one a couple of mins later, bake them a bit more, leave it for 5 mins, another coat...repeat.... maybe half a dozen times. Do this in a well ventilated kitchen. solvent flashes off very quick when parts are hot, you can see as it turns from gloss to satin.

I used three cans on all my z1000 outer engine casings, camcover and other bits. The last bits at the end of a can spurt out and ruin your finish.

Just like cooking fish fingers under a grill.