How to remove rust from tank

Hey davido, just checking, you say rinse with sofa, what exactly dobyou mean? Baking soda(washing soda, sodium bicarbonate etc) and brown vinegar like apple cider vinegar?

I tried the etch and prep on my goldwing tank; came out so-so; may have been diluted too much, it worked okay tho.

floivanus wrote: I tried the etch and prep on my goldwing tank; came out so-so; may have been diluted too much, it worked okay tho.

How much did you dilute it?

I've taken a heavily rusted tank and dumped the Etch & Prep inside and within a few hours it was perfectly clean. You gotta be careful using the stuff full strength though because if you leave it more than a day or so a chalky residue will start to build up. The residue will reduce flash rust tendency so it's not all bad though. Realize that this stuff is phosphoric acid. Por-15's tank cleaning kit comes with basically the same stuff. The industrial painters that I've visited before have a phosphate tank they dip parts into as part of normal process. Go buy some PPG or Dupont paint "metal prep" solution and it's phosphoric acid. Guess what I'm driving at is that phosphoric acid is the industry accepted product to clean rusty metal prior to finishing. After derusting you can recycle the sauce and use it again and again. I've got a gallon that's been used dozens and dozens of times and it still works. A sludge builds up on the bottom of the bottle but you can pour off the clean stuff off the top and keep going. For $15/gallon you can use this stuff for literally years in a normal garage environment so it's a tremendous value.

Nessism wrote:

floivanus wrote: I tried the etch and prep on my goldwing tank; came out so-so; may have been diluted too much, it worked okay tho.

How much did you dilute it?

I've taken a heavily rusted tank and dumped the Etch & Prep inside and within a few hours it was perfectly clean. You gotta be careful using the stuff full strength though because if you leave it more than a day or so a chalky residue will start to build up. The residue will reduce flash rust tendency so it's not all bad though. Realize that this stuff is phosphoric acid. Por-15's tank cleaning kit comes with basically the same stuff. The industrial painters that I've visited before have a phosphate tank they dip parts into as part of normal process. Go buy some PPG or Dupont paint "metal prep" solution and it's phosphoric acid. Guess what I'm driving at is that phosphoric acid is the industry accepted product to clean rusty metal prior to finishing. After derusting you can recycle the sauce and use it again and again. I've got a gallon that's been used dozens and dozens of times and it still works. A sludge builds up on the bottom of the bottle but you can pour off the clean stuff off the top and keep going. For $15/gallon you can use this stuff for literally years in a normal garage environment so it's a tremendous value.

Coke is a lot cheaper...

I used KREAM its about $50 from your local bike shop.nits a 3 stage process and works amazingly.

floivanus wrote: Hey davido, just checking, you say rinse with sofa, what exactly dobyou mean? Baking soda(washing soda, sodium bicarbonate etc) and brown vinegar like apple cider vinegar?

I tried the etch and prep on my goldwing tank; came out so-so; may have been diluted too much, it worked okay tho.

Brown vinegar as in ...not white vinegar! Not sure how else to describe it. You can put it on your chips. Unless youre American,then you put it on your French fries.( and not cidervinegar) The soda is 'washing soda. I think the same thing you use as solution for the electolisis method.Its just to neutralise the vinegar.

Friesema993 wrote: I used KREAM its about $50 from your local bike shop.nits a 3 stage process and works amazingly.

How long ago did you coat the tank with it? I've read numerous nightmares of it failing over time. Ed

davido wrote:

floivanus wrote: Hey davido, just checking, you say rinse with sofa, what exactly dobyou mean? Baking soda(washing soda, sodium bicarbonate etc) and brown vinegar like apple cider vinegar?

I tried the etch and prep on my goldwing tank; came out so-so; may have been diluted too much, it worked okay tho.

Brown vinegar as in ...not white vinegar! Not sure how else to describe it. You can put it on your chips. Unless youre American,then you put it on your French fries.( and not cidervinegar) The soda is 'washing soda. I think the same thing you use as solution for the electolisis method.Its just to neutralise the vinegar.

You're thinking of malt vinegar, and I can't see how it would possibly make any difference. Any 'flavor' of vinegar would work as they all contain roughly the same percentage of acetic acid.

MDZ1rider wrote: I vote with Jackelberry. Evaporust is the best thing I've ever used. It's not acid based and does not harm paint. It also requires no agitation. Just pour it in and let it sit over night. Unfortunately it's also expensive. You'll need at least 2 gallons at appox. $25.00 each. However, it can be reused. I've used the same batch on 3 tanks so far. I figure I'm now down to $15 per tank.

In Canada we have an equivalent product. The only way to go. Screw stupid 3 stage systems.

I have tried electrolysis too. Only lasted a year then one day lost power and the bike died as the rust came back and clogged my fuel filter.

650ed wrote:

Friesema993 wrote: I used KREAM its about $50 from your local bike shop.nits a 3 stage process and works amazingly.

How long ago did you coat the tank with it? I've read numerous nightmares of it failing over time. Ed

I Kreamed mine over 10 yrs. ago & have never had any issues, the most important thing is the prep work, if not done correctly, to the T, you WILL, have problems, flaking , peeling then clogging petcock filter, ETC.
& you cant re coat over it, & it's a real PITA to remove, so if someone plans on doing it, don't take any short cuts, & be meticulous , especially about the prep work, or you WILL regret it
Pete

The following is best in my experience (your mileage may vary)

- Por-15 for tanks that have structurally sound metal.

- Caswell's tank sealing epoxy for tanks with thin metal or holes (this stuff is super thick and reinforces the metal and plugs holes)

- Redkote is what most radiator shops use to seal tanks.

- Kreem if you are in a hurry and can't get your hands on any of the above.

MDZ1rider wrote: I vote with Jackelberry. Evaporust is the best thing I've ever used. It's not acid based and does not harm paint. It also requires no agitation. Just pour it in and let it sit over night. Unfortunately it's also expensive. You'll need at least 2 gallons at appox. $25.00 each. However, it can be reused. I've used the same batch on 3 tanks so far. I figure I'm now down to $15 per tank.

Here's a little tip: just because you have a 4 gallon tank doesn't mean you need 4 gallons of Evaporust. You just need half to 1 gallon and some 'other stuff' to fill up the remaining tank volume. Polyester rope is cheap, non absorbent, and easy to get in and out....

Nessism wrote: The following is best in my experience (your mileage may vary)

- Por-15 for tanks that have structurally sound metal.

- Caswell's tank sealing epoxy for tanks with thin metal or holes (this stuff is super thick and reinforces the metal and plugs holes)

- Redkote is what most radiator shops use to seal tanks.

- Kreem if you are in a hurry and can't get your hands on any of the above.

I agree with your choices , Nessisim, 10 yrs. ago when I used the Kream, it was the only product I had heard of, & was readily available at most motorcycle shops, I would've preferred to use any of the above, before Kream , but so far so good for me