Electroless Nickel Plating info

Electroless Nickel Plating info from the KZRider archives posted by KraZe2 .
You can go into the archives to read the entire topics. Use the links below or search the archives for electroless nickel. I just cherry picked the posts by KraZe2.

Link + Topic Title + Posts by KraZe2:

kzrider.com/archive/viewthread.php?tid=19481&page=1
Polishing and refinnishing ?'s

Electroless Nickel plating by KraZe2
Electroless nickel is the best plating you can do for durability and looks in my personal opinion. Used in the Firearms Industry and for Military applications where a exact equal even plating thickness is required at every surface point. It is an accurate, exact, precision plating that can be done on steel and aluminum. It gets into every crevice, crack, corner, hole etc, un-like chroming. Chrome plating builds up in areas like corners. You can plate a tube in electroless nickel and bend it to 45 degrees and it will not peel or crack. There is a NP3 Electroless nickel that is impregnated with teflon and is self lubricating (used on firearm receivers, etc) and has a cool greyish blue hue, I used this plating on wear areas (brake and clutch lever pivot bolts, rear brake pedal pivot assembly, de-clutching mechanism etc and you will never have to lubricate, ever. Extensive salt tests have been performed on this type of plating with outstanding results. I have done this to all my Husqvarna bikes also, I build the bikes to last and to with-stand the elements. Standard electroless nickel is a satin silver and looks incredible. Parts are glass beaded prior to plating which is the best part about prepping, just buff out any scratches and glass bead before plating. I don't know if it costs more than Chroming, but you never have to do it again. Electroless Nickel is applied through a Chemical reaction versus the chrome plating which is electrically applied and hence the build up in certain areas and thin in others. You have to find a good shop for a proper application. The place I use is the best and they are used to working with extremely small bits.
I've tried zinc (waste of money) and don't like to polish chrome, I like the cast industrial satin silver look. All axles and other special bolts and related hardware have been done on my 750 E2 as well as my oil pan, cam cover, side covers, starter cover, battery box, mounting brackets etc. NO RUST EVER. Look into it. This IS the Kats meow.:cool:

I don't think it affects the engine from cooling or retains heat any more than chrome or bare steel/aluminum or anodizing as it is used on Military and Commercial aircraft engines as well as firearms. This stuff is amazing and not many people are aware of it or have every seen it but it has been available for some time. I have never been into chrome but have experience in Anodizing, cadium, zinc, zinc with yellow chromate conversion and this is by far the best maintence free plating and closely resembles a factory look.

I am new at posting so I am not familiar with u2u yet. I know nothing of the do-it-yourself kits, I am told they are not good, but I have no on-hands experience with the home kits. I did my carb tops, bowls in regular E/N and did all of the linkages in the NP3 E/N. I only carb dipped the carb bodys of mine and they came out like new/mint. I would test a scrap carb first, and remember you have to glass-bead first. Let me know your results. Hope this helps

kzrider.com/archive/viewthread.php?tid=19027#pid172005
Clean Carb Pics

Electroless Nickel plating by KraZe2
After seeing other carb banks being shown, I had to post my newly restored carbs from my 1981 KZ 750 E2. Carb tops, float bowls and bracket/rails were plated with Electroless-Nickel. All of the linkages, choke shafts and related hardware were also plated in a special Electroless-Nickel that has a self-lubricating teflon impregnated material, used primarily in the firearms industry and Military applications. Carbs were re-stored using all new o-rings, shaft dust boots, gaskets and Stainless steel allen head hardware. This was a pain-staking ordeal but well worth it. The rest of the bike is under-going the same process and I can't wait to sync these up. I will be running a Vance&Hines 4 into 1 and was wondering if I needed to re-jet or raise the needles, anyone info would be greatly appreciated. Great site, have been coming here for many years and this is my first post.

Plating was done here locally, it's the best stuff you can do for durability. It is a accurate, exact, precision, plating and can be done on steel and aluminum. It gets into every crevice, crack, corner, hole etc, un-like chroming. You can plate a tube and bend it to 45 degrees and it will not peel. The NP3 Electroless nickel is self lubricating and has a greyish blue hue, used this plating on wear areas (brake and clutch lever bolts, rear brake pedal pivot assembly, de-clutching mechanism etc. I have done this to all my Husqvarna bikes also, I build the bikes to last and to with-stand the elements. Standard electroless nickel is a satin silver and looks incredible. Parts are glass beaded prior to plating which is the best part about prepping. I don't know if it costs more than Chroming, but you never have to do it again.

I've tried zinc (waste of money) and don't like to polish chrome, I like the cast industrial satin silver look. Every bracket, all axles and other special bolts have been done as well as my oil pan, side covers, starter cover, battery box, etc. All hardware (Bolts, washers, Nylok nuts) on the bike have been replaced with Stainless Steel Allen, hex and button head fasteners. I will be running the stock air-box with a foam Uni-filter and 4 into 1 Vance&Hines exhaust. Carbs currently have the stock size jets. From what I have read in the different forums, it seems like I should go up 1 size on the Pilot jet and go up 2 sizes on both the Primary Main and Secondary Main. Should I do this first before rasing the needles? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. I will post more pics of the different pieces that have been Electroless nickeled

photos gone