Rust in tank

Copious amounts of water are a good thing. Fortunately, acid does not attack paint like a solvent might.

Bill

Acid doesn't faze the stock paint, but this is a repaint. Just getting rained on once ruins the majority of them, so I'd be extra careful. all the sealers, POR15, Bill Hirsch, Kreme, ect work ok, but need a clean tank to adhere to. One thing I've mentioned in the past, but just to reinterate, if you use sealer, get the tank clean with heavy acid. Don't skimp or "be safe", by going 10% on the acid/water ratio or your job will fail. Other than this, the biggest cause of failure is coating too thick. Put in the sealer, coat the tank, drain it when it's still thin, then maybe repeat once. No need or benefit to coating to a 1/8 thick glob of plastic coating.

okay

Try this: www.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html I have not tried this, but it sure as hell looks as if it will.

I have used a product called OSPHO by a company called Skyco. It dissolves rust, but is pretty gentle and does not seem to harm paint like muriatic acid will. It's mainly phosphoric acid, with a few additives to make it coat and penetrate rust better. Sells by the gallon, and a gallon will last a long long time.

I use about 2-3 cups in a tank, then fill it the rest of the way with hot water. Let it sit for about a day. Drain it out, and rinse thoroughly. Drain as much water as you can, then stick a hairdryer in it set as low as it will go, or even on cool.

Works great. If you are worried about pinholes, they generally happen on the seams. I use kreem and just use enough to fill in the seams at the bottom of the tank. It's not really necessary to coat the whole inner surface of the tank as long as you keep gas in the tank and dont let it sit out in the rain for years. I have done this on three of my bikes and they all came out great and are both leak-free and rust free to this day.

-Dave

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_content...view&id=22&Itemid=11

I have removed rust using "The Works" toilet cleaner, but the tank needs to be filled or coated quickly. Flash rust happens fast. I would recommend POR 15 if your tank needs a liner. Stay away from Kreem IMO. I have one bike with a Kreem liner applied by the PO and it's not fairing well. Not well adhered to the tank and occasionally it liberates a bit of the lining which immediately cloggs the fuel filter.

testarossa wrote:

I have removed rust using "The Works" toilet cleaner, but the tank needs to be filled or coated quickly. Flash rust happens fast. I would recommend POR 15 if your tank needs a liner. Stay away from Kreem IMO. I have one bike with a Kreem liner applied by the PO and it's not fairing well. Not well adhered to the tank and occasionally it liberates a bit of the lining which immediately cloggs the fuel filter.

+1 ON kREEM, one word OXALIC ACID

stonemaster wrote:

testarossa wrote:

I have removed rust using "The Works" toilet cleaner, but the tank needs to be filled or coated quickly. Flash rust happens fast. I would recommend POR 15 if your tank needs a liner. Stay away from Kreem IMO. I have one bike with a Kreem liner applied by the PO and it's not fairing well. Not well adhered to the tank and occasionally it liberates a bit of the lining which immediately cloggs the fuel filter.

+1 ON kREEM, one word OXALIC ACID

stonemaster wrote:

testarossa wrote:

I have removed rust using "The Works" toilet cleaner, but the tank needs to be filled or coated quickly. Flash rust happens fast. I would recommend POR 15 if your tank needs a liner. Stay away from Kreem IMO. I have one bike with a Kreem liner applied by the PO and it's not fairing well. Not well adhered to the tank and occasionally it liberates a bit of the lining which immediately cloggs the fuel filter.

+1 ON kREEM, one word OXALIC ACID

That's two words.

yea i noticed that after i posted WTH
stuff works great, I've done 2 tanks with it
Kreem sux, I saw it come off in sheets

After having to deal with the Kreem someone put in my tank, I will never use it. I am sold!