How do i do Matte Black?

Im starting on over-hauling my 81' KZ1000LTD. Aside from the mechanical issues, my bike looks like a mistreated, beaten monster that needs some love:D Paint will be necessary this winter. I tried to do a matte black paintjob before but i kinda effed it off after the 2 coats of primer.. How can i do a matte black paint job without gas eating it, or rubbing off and getting all rusty? Im going to bondo the dents and sand so the tank will look brand new after the paint.. Powder coating is probably not an option because i dont have the money. Can you guys help me out?

Thanks guys,
KT

As I'm only familiar with Eastwood's product lineup, I know they offer a matte/satin black and clear coat "Rat Rod" paint. I don't remember exactly what it's called, but the black and clear are paired together to keep the gloss down.

Is the Eastwood stuff a 2-part fuel proof paint?

You could try searching for 2K clear - it comes in a special can & is fuel proof... and pricy. I've seen it in gloss & satin clear.... not sure if the 2k stuff comes in colors.

Yes, the one I'm referencing (and the normal gloss clear) are both two-part urethane products.

www.eastwood.com/rat-rod-black-2k-urethane-qt-w-activator.html

www.eastwood.com/ew-rat-rod-satin-clear-ouart-kit.html

Reportedly, the two-part clear may provide a fuel proof finish, even with the rattle can version. Am uncertain whether it's available in matte finish (rattle can or otherwise).

Has anyone experimented with the one part rattle can model plane clear spray that's supposed to be fuel proof?
If lacquer based, may take great care not to lift the color coat when spraying over it.

hobby-shack.amazonwebstore.com/Top-Flite...c&utm_source=froogle

The old days offered a simple choice between enamel and lacquer.
But there are so many different paint formulas out there nowadays, need a pro's advice to keep up with them (enamels, lacquers, acrylic, urethane, imron, etc., on and on.)
And that's only for the metal finishing products, never mind the latex and water based formulas. :lol:

Good Fortune!

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These aren't rattle cans. If rattle is required, I'm not sure there is a matte/satin two-part rattle clear product.

I have used these clears (in the high solid gloss form) and it is very durable to fuel.

I used the 2K rattle can on my Z1 body, goes on great. If you want a matte finish, just spray your tank/body with Duplicolor black, then clear it with the 2K rattle can ($17 per can), you'll get some orange peel but that's ok because you can wet sand with 2000 to remove the peel and give your black a matte finish.

I used one can of clear for my bike, but would have liked another 1/2 a can so I didn't have to worry about sanding through removing the peel. So buy 2.

www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

After the 2000 you'll wind up with something like this:

From the net ---

Glow engines cannot be operated with the same gasoline you’d get at a filling station pump. They require a special fuel, called “glow fuel.” It contains methanol as the base, with varying amounts of nitromethane to increase the energy that the fuel can provide. Oil, pre-mixed into the fuel, lubricates and protects your tiny engine as it pounds out amazing power.

As noted by H1Vindicator, am also wondering whether model plane fuel would be more or less aggressive toward a painted finish, compared to gasoline.
And whether additions to gasoline such as ethanol blends might increase aggressiveness of the fuel toward a painted finish.

The original stock paint on my Z1 and KZ900 fuel tanks has suffered accidental gasoline drips after being filled. :pinch: Promptly wiped dry (after mild oath) with no ill effects.
Always kept well polished and waxed, neither original stock tank shows any sign of ever having any gasoline dripped onto it. Don't know what the factory used, but it's proved itself against gasoline.

Brake fluid should also be immediately wiped off. And if desired the area may be doused with common household rubbing alcohol to rinse away any brake fluid residual.
Would imagine the alcohol removes wax, so re-wax.

An inexpensive plastic bottle of household rubbing alcohol fitted with a common hand pump sprayer is a handy item to have in the workshop.

Good Fortune!

Kitten Tooth wrote:

Im starting on over-hauling my 81' KZ1000LTD. Aside from the mechanical issues, my bike looks like a mistreated, beaten monster that needs some love:D Paint will be necessary this winter. I tried to do a matte black paintjob before but i kinda effed it off after the 2 coats of primer.. How can i do a matte black paint job without gas eating it, or rubbing off and getting all rusty? Im going to bondo the dents and sand so the tank will look brand new after the paint.. Powder coating is probably not an option because i dont have the money. Can you guys help me out?

Thanks guys,
KT

100% what I would do!
"TransStar" 2K epoxy, primer sealer! 50/50 mixture.
It is the best stuff I ever used. They have a black that is flat to satin look. Would be perfect.
Simple to use, quart primer, quart activator about 40 bucks.
Need a real spray gun, cleans up with laquer thinner.
It smells God awful when spraying.
This is shop grade stuff.

We used John Deere Blitz Black on the body of my 55 Chevy Gasser.
It comes out, not flat , but not as shiny as satin. It's what lots of Drag Racers used to give the "Murdered Out" look.

It is Xylene based and only like $15 a quart.
It sprays good out of a $14 HVLP gravity gun I bought at Harbour Freight.

Like with any paint, numerous thin coats, rather than one heavy coat.

I had a 98 vulcan I stripped down and used high heat bbq grill paint on body and motor parts, four years without any problem...touched it up once.