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Gas Tank / Other
- coach59
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28 Aug 2010 08:40 - 28 Aug 2010 08:53 #394512
by coach59
Gas Tank / Other was created by coach59
See the attachged photos....I"m guessing the gas tank needs to be cleaned? What is recommended to accomplish this? It's an '82 KZ750 LTD. Also, I've attached another photo....what is it?
Thanks...your help is much appreciated.
Thanks...your help is much appreciated.
Last edit: 28 Aug 2010 08:53 by coach59.
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- coach59
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28 Aug 2010 08:58 #394516
by coach59
Replied by coach59 on topic Gas Tank / Other
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28 Aug 2010 08:59 #394517
by coach59
Replied by coach59 on topic Gas Tank / Other
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- PLUMMEN
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28 Aug 2010 09:07 #394519
by PLUMMEN
Still recovering,some days are better than others.
Replied by PLUMMEN on topic Gas Tank / Other
thats your tach drive in bottem picture
Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- TexasKZ
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28 Aug 2010 09:11 #394520
by TexasKZ
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
Replied by TexasKZ on topic Gas Tank / Other
Gas tank definitely needs to be cleaned. POR-15 is a popular remedy.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- TexasKZ
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28 Aug 2010 09:11 #394521
by TexasKZ
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
Replied by TexasKZ on topic Gas Tank / Other
P.S. A good inline fuel filter would be a good idea, too.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- coach59
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28 Aug 2010 12:34 #394560
by coach59
Replied by coach59 on topic Gas Tank / Other
Has anyone used Metal Rescue? Sounds like it's a one-step process, rather than a 3-step process. Is removing the tank easy to do ? Anything tricky about it ?
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- sparkn
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28 Aug 2010 12:58 - 28 Aug 2010 13:00 #394566
by sparkn
1979 KZ650 SR
Replied by sparkn on topic Gas Tank / Other
OMG, is that from a running bike? Inline filter for sure. Don't forget to clean the petcock too. It's gotta be grungy. Tank comes off pretty quick. If you don't have an off position on your petcock, I'd be very leery that it shuts all the way. Drain the tank first (in the PRIME position if you don't have ON/OFF).
The spatter in the second photo looks like the wind caught some lube that may have come from the cable.
The spatter in the second photo looks like the wind caught some lube that may have come from the cable.
1979 KZ650 SR
Last edit: 28 Aug 2010 13:00 by sparkn.
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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28 Aug 2010 13:51 #394580
by Motor Head
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
Replied by Motor Head on topic Gas Tank / Other
I don't know about the treatment process so much. But to clean the rust out a lot of guy's will take a put a bunch of nuts and bolts in to a empty tank and shake it around really good. To take the tank of, first lift your seat, then undo the securing at the rear, some just "lift", then pull back towards the seat area. They have two ears up front that they slide off of. Drain it first and unhook the fuel and vacuum lines, also the wire for the fuel gauge sending unit. Looking at that you will need to disassemble and clean the entire fuel system, tank/ petcock/ carbs/ replace the line and install a fuel filter.
Best order carb kits and a petcock kit, some fuel line and a good filter. Z1 would have it all and should be very competitive on price. Plus 1 stop shopping so it saves on freight.
Hopefully you have a Factory Service Manual for your bike. If not you really will need it.
Best order carb kits and a petcock kit, some fuel line and a good filter. Z1 would have it all and should be very competitive on price. Plus 1 stop shopping so it saves on freight.
Hopefully you have a Factory Service Manual for your bike. If not you really will need it.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- MFolks
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28 Aug 2010 14:10 #394585
by MFolks
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
Replied by MFolks on topic Gas Tank / Other
Oxalic Acid Rust Removal On Gas Tanks(Found On the internet)
Just ordered a few pounds of it this morning, it "should" remove the rust in my Kaw tank and it's great for removing rust on shop tools or whatever too.
I used this stuff while I lived in Florida where the humidity usually averaged 100% and it saved me a lot of labor ... it's Eco friendly too. Our humidity here in Alabama is just about as bad as on the gulf coast ... so even if it won't completely clean the tank rust out ... and I truly believe it will ... I can make good use of it
Don't know why I didn't think about it sooner, mixes with tap water, flushes out easy, it won't harm paint, plastics, aluminum or anything of that nature ... just kills the rust and leaves the metal coated to help prevent future rusting.
The guy's name is Gregg and he has a ebay store but you can buy directly from him, send payment by check or paypal. I talked to him yesterday and told him there would probably be more folks from the forum inquiring about it. He said to have whoever calls or emails to remind him they're from the forum.
It sells for $4 a pound and he can fit 4 pounds into a flat rate priority mail package and ship it for $4.95. So 4 pounds should go along way since it can be used over and over again. $20.95 for 4 pounds shipped isn't bad at all in my opinion. The only way he's making any profit on it is by buying LARGE quantities and selling small.
I'm probably going to set up a large vat to soak tanks and tools in.
This stuff will eventually turn black after heavy use but it still cleans good and washes clean with tap water.
He claims he's had several people use it for cleaning rusty tanks with great results and I know I had good luck with it before too, just never used any on a tank ... but will soon.
Here's his info: Best to try his cell first.
Gregg MacEllven
Sea Shield Marine Products (sales rep)
Mac's Pacs; teak/mahog plugs, flax, oxalic, etc.
macspacs@sbcglobal.net
310-547-2687 (home)
310-547-2606 (fax)
310-721-9667 (cell)
Late yesterday afternoon I mixed up a batch and put it inside my original KZ tank.
The tank had what I would call a medium overall surface rust throughout the inside and a fairly heavy rust build up along the entire bottom surface.
The instructions suggest warm water but I talked with Gregg and he said it wouldn't really matter as long as I wasn't looking for INSTANT results and let it soak so I used unheated water from the hose and about 8 heaping tablespoons of Oxalic acid and let it soak for 24 hours.
I just drained the tank and the water was colored kind of a light brown, I flushed the tank with clean water twice and looked inside as far as I could see with a strong miniature LED flashlight and NO RUST was present ANYWHERE including the bottom surfaces.
The Oxalic acid left behind a off white colored protective coating on the metal surface just like Gregg said it would
Once I got the tank dry I saturated a shop rag with gas and rubbed the white coating with it and the coating stayed put.
But ... I will highly recommend you folks give this stuff a try because it sure takes the work out of removing rust from our gas tanks and it did not faze the paint either where I overfilled it.
This old tank will get repainted and used now that the rust is gone ... but for you folks that have internal surface rust on tanks that still have good paint on them, don't worry ... this is the ticket right here !
I can tell you right now that it works very well, the tanks I cleaned back in November have sat in my shop until I decided to tag & drive my 78 KZ a few days ago.
I looked at all 3 tanks & they still looked rust free inside other than a small haze which may be simply what the metal looks like after sitting so long after being treated. I thru a 1/2 gallon of gas in it, sloshed it around, poured it out, installed the tank with clear gas line & the fuel runs out CLEAN ... no rust deposit showing up in the filter either !
Oxalic acid WORKS better than anything I've ever tried in 30 years of wrenching. Use hot water, mix it up double or triple strength, fill the tank to the rim and let it sit overnight. If you don't get the results you want, do it again, this stuff is cheap and WILL clean the rust out of tanks without harming the paint even.
I kept several gallons of used mix in a large plastic container & constantly throw stuff in it like a set of rusted boat trailer wheels, impact sockets etc. & it cleans them like new, may take a while but it works.
Some tanks may require more acid to do the job but this stuff is cheap & easy to use, won't even burn the grass when poured out.
I did a Honda tank for a buddy that had some ridiculous rust along the inside bottom flat areas & top part of the hump. I tripled the recipe & let it sit a couple of days and it came out CLEAN.
Would rather NOT use a tank liner product that may or may not peel away ... oxolic axid won't hurt the paint either, so that's a huge plus.
Just ordered a few pounds of it this morning, it "should" remove the rust in my Kaw tank and it's great for removing rust on shop tools or whatever too.
I used this stuff while I lived in Florida where the humidity usually averaged 100% and it saved me a lot of labor ... it's Eco friendly too. Our humidity here in Alabama is just about as bad as on the gulf coast ... so even if it won't completely clean the tank rust out ... and I truly believe it will ... I can make good use of it
Don't know why I didn't think about it sooner, mixes with tap water, flushes out easy, it won't harm paint, plastics, aluminum or anything of that nature ... just kills the rust and leaves the metal coated to help prevent future rusting.
The guy's name is Gregg and he has a ebay store but you can buy directly from him, send payment by check or paypal. I talked to him yesterday and told him there would probably be more folks from the forum inquiring about it. He said to have whoever calls or emails to remind him they're from the forum.
It sells for $4 a pound and he can fit 4 pounds into a flat rate priority mail package and ship it for $4.95. So 4 pounds should go along way since it can be used over and over again. $20.95 for 4 pounds shipped isn't bad at all in my opinion. The only way he's making any profit on it is by buying LARGE quantities and selling small.
I'm probably going to set up a large vat to soak tanks and tools in.
This stuff will eventually turn black after heavy use but it still cleans good and washes clean with tap water.
He claims he's had several people use it for cleaning rusty tanks with great results and I know I had good luck with it before too, just never used any on a tank ... but will soon.
Here's his info: Best to try his cell first.
Gregg MacEllven
Sea Shield Marine Products (sales rep)
Mac's Pacs; teak/mahog plugs, flax, oxalic, etc.
macspacs@sbcglobal.net
310-547-2687 (home)
310-547-2606 (fax)
310-721-9667 (cell)
Late yesterday afternoon I mixed up a batch and put it inside my original KZ tank.
The tank had what I would call a medium overall surface rust throughout the inside and a fairly heavy rust build up along the entire bottom surface.
The instructions suggest warm water but I talked with Gregg and he said it wouldn't really matter as long as I wasn't looking for INSTANT results and let it soak so I used unheated water from the hose and about 8 heaping tablespoons of Oxalic acid and let it soak for 24 hours.
I just drained the tank and the water was colored kind of a light brown, I flushed the tank with clean water twice and looked inside as far as I could see with a strong miniature LED flashlight and NO RUST was present ANYWHERE including the bottom surfaces.
The Oxalic acid left behind a off white colored protective coating on the metal surface just like Gregg said it would
Once I got the tank dry I saturated a shop rag with gas and rubbed the white coating with it and the coating stayed put.
But ... I will highly recommend you folks give this stuff a try because it sure takes the work out of removing rust from our gas tanks and it did not faze the paint either where I overfilled it.
This old tank will get repainted and used now that the rust is gone ... but for you folks that have internal surface rust on tanks that still have good paint on them, don't worry ... this is the ticket right here !
I can tell you right now that it works very well, the tanks I cleaned back in November have sat in my shop until I decided to tag & drive my 78 KZ a few days ago.
I looked at all 3 tanks & they still looked rust free inside other than a small haze which may be simply what the metal looks like after sitting so long after being treated. I thru a 1/2 gallon of gas in it, sloshed it around, poured it out, installed the tank with clear gas line & the fuel runs out CLEAN ... no rust deposit showing up in the filter either !
Oxalic acid WORKS better than anything I've ever tried in 30 years of wrenching. Use hot water, mix it up double or triple strength, fill the tank to the rim and let it sit overnight. If you don't get the results you want, do it again, this stuff is cheap and WILL clean the rust out of tanks without harming the paint even.
I kept several gallons of used mix in a large plastic container & constantly throw stuff in it like a set of rusted boat trailer wheels, impact sockets etc. & it cleans them like new, may take a while but it works.
Some tanks may require more acid to do the job but this stuff is cheap & easy to use, won't even burn the grass when poured out.
I did a Honda tank for a buddy that had some ridiculous rust along the inside bottom flat areas & top part of the hump. I tripled the recipe & let it sit a couple of days and it came out CLEAN.
Would rather NOT use a tank liner product that may or may not peel away ... oxolic axid won't hurt the paint either, so that's a huge plus.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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