Carbon Fiber Bodywork

First off, tri, that MV is gorgeous :woohoo:
As far as the source of the trouble, I'm fairly certain it is rooted in the resin thickener and the application of heat. The defect doesn't compromise the part, which is in fact quite rigid. As you surmised Justin, vacuum was not the culprit. I had the mold under a consistent 26.5"HG.

porchev914 wrote:

That blows my mind! Awesome! :ohmy: :woohoo:

A carbon-fiber or carbon-kevlar weave valve cover would be awesome. I don't know if I have enough money to pay for one, but by doing it yourself that would be a very good looking part.

Kawiconvert, I have the idea in the back of my mind, but you jump into a different realm of composites when you need production machined tolerance parts to contain engine fluids. I know it can be done, but I believe it requires skill and experience I do not yet posses :whistle: ...yet
I do have the carbon/kevlar hybrid fabric... :laugh:

On to the show!
I trimmed the flashing from the sidecover with a die grinder/cut off wheel. Came off like butter, but I didn't want to get to close to the finished lines and risk screwing up my first part :blink: I used a rag and some polishing compound to see of the epoxy would shine up a bit. It did a little. Then I put two coats of wax on it, just to get an idea of what it might look like as a finished product. Something like this?

Well, now I just need to iron out the strange issue I had with the secondary layup, and employ the lessons learned during this experimental lamination The most important is to take your time. I make the most (and most preventable) mistakes when I rush into it without being prepared. I guess I get a little over enthusiastic some times and get started before I'm ready. And once the catalyst hits the resin, you're on the clock, a limited clock at that! the other lesson is the edges. I used extra cloth on all but one edge to reinforce it. I kick myself for missing the last edge. It still look pretty good though. I amazed myself with how well the first one turnd out :laugh:

Would you need to machine the surfaces down? Maybe a diamond wheel surface grinder?

I would think that after lamination was completed, a pass with a surfacing machine would be required to provide a level plane to seal against the head. If I ventured into such things, I would start smaller and simpler. Something like the points cover which is simple and doesn't have to seal against fluid. Who knows.....I still gotta finish my bike :laugh:

part looks awesome good job. on the next layup for the foam core instead of useing the filler try and bevel the edge of your foam core. that should take care of the need to add filler and let the air flow out better. you might also try to add some quilt batting as a pad between your bag and the peel and ply. this should help you with better internal part outcome as you wont end up with the bag lines also should help things conform better.

In order to get your sealing surface on that points cover, or a valve cover, you would just need to make a pass with a flycutter or a face mill. Carbon fiber is quite abrasive, and will wear cutting tools. You wouldn't need to use diamond tools, but they do help. Regular carbide inserted tools will cut it very well. The main thing is to have your lamination built up enough, and void free. Any voids or porosity would likely start a crack. I would also recommend that you have it milled in an enclosed machine with flood coolant. If you think that fiberglass will make you itch, then you should try machined carbon fiber.

Adam, that cover looks AWESOME! You should have your process down by the time that I am ready for Testarossa 2.0. I just might have to buy a set from you. Killer work, keep it up.

Thanks for the input sarge. I had read about beveling the core material, and I'll try that on the next one. I also plan to punch some "breather" holes in the core on the next one as well.

The wrinkles you see are from the perforated release film, which does not conform to the compound curves of the laminate, thereby bunching in the corners. The perforated release film is placed between the wet layup and polyester batting. The perforated film did not do its job the last time for some reason, and trapped the majority of the excess resin, keeping it from saturating the bleeder layer. When I progress to molding a tail section I'll try some stretching bagging film and see how that works out.

Thanks Josh! When I trimmed the flash with a die grinder, my left arm got coated with black dust. I didn't think anything of it when I brushed it off....That was a couple hours ago and I'm still itching, even after scrubbing my arms down....twice! :blush: Rookie mistake too :laugh: Just curious, exactly what vintage will Testerossa 2.0 be? I'm glad the prototype is up to everyones standards so far

You also want a respirator or at least a dust mask if you don't already have one. Bloody noses and chest pain are no joke... Holding your breath doesn't work either lol.