Restoring an old tank complete with badges

I had a problem with the tank years ago when coming home from a rally I discovered petrol coming through behind one of the badges . On getting home I decided to fill in the section that is recessed where the badge screws on in order to solve the problem . It worked for years without any problems at all . I,m now starting to rebuild the whole bike over this and next winter and have taken the notion of relining the tank ( which I will have to do anyway ) and re-fitting the original badges . Has anyone ever attempted to do this and with any success . I know it would be very tricky to locate the screw holes and wonder if my only option is to buy another tank untouched or maybe use a good double sided tape and stick them on .
Any suggestions anyone .

Cheers

C3

If you just filled the gaps with Bondo than it is a simple matter of using paint stripper to get it out. Heating the area to about 350-400F will remove the Bondo also. I am presuming that you plan on repainting the tank. I would do all this before you coat the inside (obviously :blush: ).

otakar wrote:

If you just filled the gaps with Bondo than it is a simple matter of using paint stripper to get it out. Heating the area to about 350-400F will remove the Bondo also. I am presuming that you plan on repainting the tank. I would do all this before you coat the inside (obviously :blush: ).

Correct.... the ony thing I don't understand is how bondo stopped it from leaking or bubbleing up bondo is not gas resistant ?:huh:

I'd have to imagine a drill & course wire wheel would cut into the bondo with no issues... Work on your part, well of course but should cut down to bare metal just fine...

As for the tapped badge holes, going to be difficult but can be done...

Another way you mentioned, is after all painting including clear coat is completed & completely CURED!!!! E6000 or some other adhesive them in place...

OMR

Not sure if this helps, but my badge locations were filled in with body filler when I went to repaint my tank. I was able to easily remove this material with a wire brush on a power drill. Just be careful (as always with the fuel tank) not to generate too much heat with the abrasion.

Oh, and the screw holes were cleaned up with a pick or small phillips screw driver and some compressed air.

I also saw that 3M had a new trim double-stick adhesive for automobiles. Not sure if anyone has used it, but something like that which is meant for trim on autos might work well if you had to stick them on.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions guys . Firstly the leaking area was filled with isopon which was and is used in the UK as a body filler for car panels etc . The tank was not lined or sealed on the inside at this point , I,m not sure if it was available 15 -16 years ago for a start . Because the bike has not been used for around 10 years or so there is every chance that it is flaky or rusty on the inside so I thought it should be done . I,m not sure if "bondo"is the sane as "isopon" or more like "chemical metal.
I,m a little concerned that if I take away any material to locate the screws it will weaken the area that leaked or maybe the lining of the tank will remove any concerns of leaking anyway.

Cheers

C3

Bondo@ is nothing more than Poly-Ester resin with a filler. I would remove all of it because it is obviously contaminated with "petrol" A hi temp heat gun works very well and is the fastest way to remove it. It will soften and detach itself from the metal. This is what we do when we have to cut a complicated shape on a CNC machine. We first cut one side than fill that side back up with "Bondo@". Than we deck the part and flip it around to stick it back down "Bondo@" side down. Than you can cut the other side. Once the part is finished cutting, we throw it into the oven at 400f and after about 20 minutes the Bondo@ just falls apart and off.