THE PAINTING NEWB!

Please note that the rattlecan paints found at the auto parts store or the HomeDepot are not fuel resistant. You could top coat w a 2K (2-part) clear: two components are separated within the can until a device is actuated, after which time you have about 24 hrs to use the product.

I used this how-to when doing the green tank - ChuckHawks.com - Harley Paintin' For the Under-funded and Under-skilled . The DupliColor Truck, Van & SUV paint that I used is not fuel proof. TheGSResources.com website has a how-to in the Technical section somewhere. It's longer & seemed more technical, so I just kinda used the Harley Paintin' article as a guide.
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"The DupliColor Truck, Van & SUV paint that I used is not fuel proof."... Yup!

For the most part, no paint without clear coating is truly Fuel Proof... Sure, some hold up better then others but none that I know of within reason or for the normal consumer can get his hands on is 100% proof...

Can clears, nope tested quite a few and none held up either... Henceforth 2 or 3 part clears is the only way to go....

Rock, The duplicolor you used is that a laquer based paint?

Go get all the stuff you will need, adhesion promoter, primer sandpaper etc. that is described above and before you start on the bike you should find some scrap metal, or plastic similar to your side covers, and do a practice run following all the steps described in the tutorials. This way you will get familiar with the steps necessary for prep work, and become familiar with the paint product so you can apply properly heavy coats so you don't get runs.

big thanks to OMR here, and on that note yes i have the tools to get that,i will only have to get a spray gun witch will be no prob. nd' i gues i will just have to be that much more cautous when filling up

jacosort1 wrote:

big thanks to OMR here, and on that note yes i have the tools to get that,i will only have to get a spray gun witch will be no prob. nd' i gues i will just have to be that much more cautous when filling up

If you have the spray gun and are going to spray your paint with it why don't you spray with a urethane clearcoat afterwards? laquers are really easy to apply and have benefits, but they are quite sensitive to solvents, and even a drop of gas that you miss could ruin the paint...I figure you might as well go for the 2 part clear, heck OMR and I used it and we don't have a spraygun!

Since you're going to use a spray gun, then go ahead & get good paint. That stuff about being careful during fill-ups doesn't work. Trust me. hee.

If you have the spray gun and are going to spray your paint with it why don't you spray with a urethane clearcoat afterwards? laquers are really easy to apply and have benefits, but they are quite sensitive to solvents, and even a drop of gas that you miss could ruin the paint...I figure you might as well go for the 2 part clear, heck OMR and I used it and we don't have a spraygun!

~ indeed, i wont go with laquers, i plan to use clear! wish me luck starting it tmw!

jacosort1 wrote:

If you have the spray gun and are going to spray your paint with it why don't you spray with a urethane clearcoat afterwards? laquers are really easy to apply and have benefits, but they are quite sensitive to solvents, and even a drop of gas that you miss could ruin the paint...I figure you might as well go for the 2 part clear, heck OMR and I used it and we don't have a spraygun!

~ indeed, i wont go with laquers, i plan to use clear! wish me luck starting it tmw!

Make sure the clearcoat you get is 2 part...it's a little more money, but you won't regret it.

By none other than the Forum Favorite.

www.cyclemadness.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=2088

Yeah, i use the 3M rubbing and polishing compounds too and they are really great

What about painting the engine parts? I would love to get the hazy aluminum on the kz440 to a glossy black