Tank Rust removal

Hey guts,
I read exlent post a while back on removing rust in a tank using a 10 amp battery charger, I ma keen to give this method a go but my battery charger is only 4 amp Will this still work?
Thanks

Cheers

DAve

Yes...I'd use some baking soda in there as well---worked nicely on my tank. I think that phosphoric acid works just as well, but it depends on how "Tree Friendly" you are;)

try this www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html it works real good

Thanks for the replies guys, Ill give it a go.
Cheers

Dave

Then,just buy some tank sealer,Dump in,move tank around to coat entire inside surface,let dry.Now u will not have to worry about it ever rusting agin.

Hey Guys,
I tried the electrical method without much success, but then I tried salt instead of baking soda. I've got another tank I could try it on. In any case the electrical method doesn't really get to the top of the tank very well. I guess it depends on where the rust is.

As for either method being more or less tree friendly. None of these methods generate any waste that isn't neutralized by just dumping the excess on an old slab of concrete. Except, of course, the electrical method which requires some coal fired generating plant to spin up another few kilowatts worth of acid rain.

Lastly, sealing a tank that doesn't leak is a real waste of tank sealer, your time and the value of your bike.

Check out my article in the articles section on rusty tanks.

KZCSI

you might have to put the electrode in the tank somehow without touching the tank

del

You can find washing soda in some grocery stores, in the laundry area. Not all stores carry it.

KZCSI wrote:

Lastly, sealing a tank that doesn't leak is a real waste of tank sealer, your time and the value of your bike.

I'm quite happy with the results I obtained with the POR-15 tank sealer kit. This tank had rust flaking off the top side of the tank and was fouling the carbs and plugging the inline filer. The kit allowed me to preserve the original paint on the tank and was all done at room temperature.

I have one or two more tanks I plan to do the same thing with. The process is worth it to me.

- Nate >>

I've always used the Kreem tank sealer. One change though, I use the acid etch full strengh and just keep swishing it around. Gets it done quicker and with a better etch. My KZ has had it in the tank for 12 years now!

Hey Nate,
The last thing I want is an argument. I certainly have none with you, BUT.
The best thing a manufacturer of anything can do is to convince the consuming public that their product is required universally.

Dupont has conned most of the world into thinking that every body who's building a home needs TYVEK. What a CROCK! The stuff is a passable air barrier and that's it. It sucks as a water barrier and they know it!

Whomever puts out Kreem and Pour15 wishes that they could someday be as sucessfull as Dupont at foisting their good product up the flag pole far enough that it can be somewhere near TYVEK.

If you tried the technique that I suggest for cleaning your tank the rust and scale would be history, you would have spent about $6.00 and your tank would be as good as a new tank. The process I have described has never damaged any paint on any of my tanks, twelve and counting.

As a collector of bikes I can tell you that a rusty tank is worth more than a sealed tank any day.

KZCSI

Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2006/03/20 22:04