Gun Kote 1200?

Otakar, what cryteria determins which product to use. u said Prolane on carb bodies and gunkote on carb covers?

Gunkote is a much harder and much more refined finish. The way I would explain it would be this way. If it would be a part of your bike that you would otherwise polish like your side-covers, gas-cap, float-boles, brake-pedal,etc.etc, I would use Gunkote. If it is a part that you just want to look nice and not corrode but be very durable like, engine cases, cylinder block, cylinder head, valve cover, frame, swing-arm, fork down-tubes, etc. etc. I would use Polane. The only place this would be questionable would be the cylinder block and head. The reason for that is that there are draw backs and benefits to both. Polane covers better, the surface prep is not as critical. Gunkote on the other hand dissipates heat better because the film is thinner, but the surface prep must be perfect or it will peal in a hurry and than the remainder is almost impossible to remove with out sandblasting. The trick to painting an engine is to paint it metallic and not a solid color. The metallic flakes are in fact metal and they will help conduct the heat to the surface of the engine. this means, If you want to paint the engine black, add some metallic. Otherwise add a larger oil cooler to help dissipate the heat. I would also paint any brake components in Gunkote, for a couple of reasons. One, is that it is impervious to any kind of solvent or brake fluid. Two, because it dissipates heat better than any other finish with the exception of anodizing. Three, these components are quite small and therefore easy to cover completely and prep well. Anything I missed?

Otto

Thanks for that explanation Otakar.
Where does the Por15 fit in ?
This will be helpful for me when it is my time to repaint.

Por-15 "Rust preventative" and Por-15 Black are fantastic single component paints. Once they are cured out they are indestructible. On the other hand stay away from the "silver" it is absolute garbage. The black, weather the gloss or satin are fantastic paints for any stile of frame work. If you clean off the loose rust than use the black "Rust preventative" undercoat than the black over it, you will wind up with a better finish than factory, and many times more durable. I would say it stands only a little behind the Polane. The disadvantages are that it only has about a year or so shelf life, and oz. per oz. it is more expensive. On the other hand Polane you must buy in a Gallon, Por-15 you can buy as little as a Half pint. For frame work Por-15 can't be beat. I would stick to the BLACK and stay away from the metallics. For any engine work work GunKote or Aluminum Polane, for Steel or Ferris metals I would go with Por-15. Once again, if this is a highly decorative steel part or one with frction than go with GunKote. Take a look at the pictures of my GPz1100, the rear fender which was a rusted piece of Chromed steel was painted with Por-15 gloss black after I dunked it in Muriatic acid to remove the major rust, and than hit it with a Brilo pad before i painted it with POR-15 "Rust Preventative" and than black. same with the rear tail light/License plate mount.

Otto

This instrument housing was Chromed plastic which was scratched up this was painted with Polane-T after scuffing with a brillo pad.

That helps. Thanks again Otto.

Just a friendly note to remind people that hijacking other people's postings is not a friendly thing.

I started this and I will end it. Now.

Hi Switch,

Threaded discussions invite the participation of many members. While there have been a few posts that don't directly address "Gun Kote", I don't see anything disruptive or disrespectful in any of them.

I'd like to see you go with the flow.

KZCSI

I do apologize about any unintended hijacking. If anyone has any questions about other finishes (including GunKote) please start another thread and I will be happy to answer them. After using most of these finishes for quite a few decades I will be happy to help.

Signing off of this post;

Otto

PS. The water-based ambient cure 1200 GunKote is not intended for prolonged exposure to the elements, it will not give you the corrosion resistance required, but it will hold up for a short while. Would I use it in the application you pictured? No. This is to answer your initial question.

switch wrote:

Just a friendly note to remind people that hijacking other people's postings is not a friendly thing.

I started this and I will end it. Now.

Sory Switch

As you wish, Jedi Master.

I am reviving this topic for my OWN knowledge.

Is this spray on gunkote finish sold in retail stores?
I am rebuilding a rifle and i want badly to use this easy finish, but refuse to pay shipping on a can of paint.