Issues with the Detailing on Plastic Sidecovers.

My '80 1000 LTD looks like shit. I'm not that great mechanically, so I'm trying to start off with the cosmetics that I can wrap my head around: tank, sidecovers (one word?), fenders.

One of the biggest issues is the detailing on the tank and sidecovers. It is original and the last owner (or two) didn't really take care of the bike so the detailing cracked and ugly, but not peeling. That would be a simple fix, eh? Just peel it off. But, no...

I intend to go the chemical route to strip the paint and vinyl (are the details vinyl?) from the tank, but the sidecovers are plastic. I'm afraid chemicals will also eat the covers themselves and sanding will scratch away more than the detailing.

What's a fella to do?

The safest route on plastics is hand-sanding to remove the old paint/decals...don't use large grit paper and you'll minimize any gouging...chemical stripping is contraindicated

200+ grit? I hit it with a 100 today and it got kinda scary.

I've sanded and repainted wood and metal before. So give them a soft wood treatment as far as grit and elbow grease are concerned, is that the suggestion?

Also, thanks for what my dad would have called a five dollar word: contraindicated.

mervschmaed wrote:

200+ grit? I hit it with a 100 today and it got kinda scary.

I've sanded and repainted wood and metal before. So give them a soft wood treatment as far as grit and elbow grease are concerned, is that the suggestion?

Yes, and if you do gouge, there are readily available fillers that are very forgiving.

Also, thanks for what my dad would have called a five dollar word: contraindicated.

My head is just chocked full of such drivel...

I've been using brake fluid to carefully strip paint from plastic parts. Get a coffee can, a soft three inch paint brush, an old baking sheet, some rubber gloves, and some time to kill.

This method of stripping is slow but will not damage the plastic parts like regular paint stripper will.

I used 1000, 1500 grit wet sand paper to clean multiple layers off my old 650.

You will need a lot of it, but the result is really smooth and there are no gouges at all.

I usually go with 600 to strip off as much as I can before I get to the green undercoat.

Time, beer, Time, and a lot of elbow grease will get you there safely.

another way to consider is bead blast to bare plastic ,my twin pictured was all bead blasted then sanded etc etc it came up really good mirror finish
but and a big but !those who do it need to know what theyre doing or yuk ,i guess it depends on the grit grade etc but food for thought
graeme

I'll second the brake fluid method. I've even stripped plastic light lenses with no damage.

Patience is the key.

KZCSI

MFolks wrote:

I've been using brake fluid to carefully strip paint from plastic parts. Get a coffee can, a soft three inch paint brush, an old baking sheet, some rubber gloves, and some time to kill.

This method of stripping is slow but will not damage the plastic parts like regular paint stripper will.

after stripping, which sand paper would you say is safest, wet or dry,for side covers?

and would you recommend this for the tank prep as well? or is good ole paint stripper and sanding just as good?

I'd use 400-600 grit wet sandpaper as it will stay cleaner longer by dipping the sandpaper in a container of water every so often. This way reduces the dust build up and makes for a smoother surface for the primer coat to stick to.

funny thing about the primer layer, you NEED some rough surface for the primer to stick especially on metals. any finer than 240 for under the primer and you risk it coming off latter the only bond it has is mechanical. and much finer than 400 on the primer to top coat and you can have the same issue although IF you are using a compatible paint system, and follow the recoat windows, you will have some chemical bonding also. your really smooth finishes come from the smoothing between the top coats. again if you follow the recoat windows and dont wait too long between coats you can go really fine like 600- 800 as you will have the chemical bond still going, you can then get it pretty glossy. then the Real shine is from the final cut and buff of the final coat with 2000 grit paste and a buffer.

Maybe I missed it but you guys do realize that for primer to truly stick optimally on plastics, you must use adhesion promoter?

This was also used pre-primer on the chrome headlight in my project... Scuff pad & clean, then promoter then primer then paint then clear coat....

Did the same for the tank prep....


Bull Dog is really good stuff but a messy bitch to work with. I used DupliColor's brand promoter and had good results.

OMR