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supporting the front end
- keith1
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stand, but i think there might be a better way...
this is a resourcefull bunch on here...i m open to ideas.....thanks in advance....keith
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- Patton
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in place, may use a standard floor jack or
bottle jack to lift the front end whereby entire
bike is up off the floor.
My method is to bore a shallow hole in a short
piece of 2x4 to fit snugly around the oil
filter bolt. Then jack up against the 2x4
which is held in place by the hole fitment.
It is very stable and may be left like that
for as long as desired.
Having the bike entirely up off the floor allows
easily removing both wheels simultaneously
for tire changes, or other work.
Caution -- whenever front of bike is lifted
with front wheel removed, be sure to supplement
the floor or bottle jack with a stationary
back-up support to avoid having the bike's
front end collapse and fall to the floor
in event the jack should lose pressure.
There are of course several different readily available
commercial brands of front end stands that extend from
the garage floor to underneath the triple tree, whereby
the front end may be lifted and held suspended.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- gane
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[img][/img] 1977 KZ1000A1
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- Patton
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From the cheap seats.a sissor jack under the frame in front of the r/h rider peg will lift the ft wheel far enough to allow it's removal w/bike on its side stand. once ft wheel and fender are removed, it also allows forks to be removed. it's 3 point stand is equal to it's typical repose when parked. beware of hydrolic jacks which may leak down, or brace accordingly.G
Yes -- and same for lifting rear wheel off the ground by jacking up right rear of bike when bike is on sidestand.
Of course everything's slanted, so it's sort of like working in a Fun-House. :laugh:
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- drmadd95
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Can you tell I don't have any jacks? Was the best thing I could think of at the time. :laugh:
1979 KZ650 B (Main Ride)
1978 KZ650 D1 (sold)
1982 KZ750 (parts bike)
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- Old Man Rock
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NOTE: If your only removing the rim/tire, you only need to raise a couple of inches... and the above mentioned is not required.
If removing the entire front end...
Then I loosen/remove the neck bolt, handle bars with controls/cabling anything that is going to prevent the front end raise (removing the top triple tree and forks etc...).
Then with a floor jack under middle engine I raise it up no more than a foot or so and the front drops and swings out towards the front real nicely.
If you have a third jack, then support under the motor as well for a 3 point support system while you work on your project.
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Link14
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- Bluemeanie
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1980 KZ650F1, Bought new out the door for $2,162.98!
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- SPARKY47
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- 1980 KZ500 B2
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1980 KZ500 B2
Location: Middle England[/b
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- keith1
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- Old Man Rock
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While working on the bike, I call my wife over inform and inform her butt seems to be getting a little big... Crap dude, she picks up the whole bike with one hand no problem... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Only downfall to this method, it's hard to change the tire with a motorcycle sticking out my ass. :ohmy: :blink: :pinch:
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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