Rattle can gas tank paint job, meets liquid gas!!

sweeeet.

Everything I've ever needed to strip the wax on, I've used some dish soap and water..I use about 2 tablespoons of soap for a gallon of water.

I used polyurethane clear coat, avail in rattle cans from home improvement stores, to coat my rattle can paint job. Its the stuff you spray on wooden furniture to protect it. The stuff is almost indestructible. The one bad thing is it put a slight yellowish tint on my silver gas tanks. Since all I wanted was a "10-foot" paint job anyway, no worries.

Qdude wrote:

I want to re-clear coat. I will do this over the existing enamel clear coat.

Better test it for compatibility or it could rip the old paint off like paint stripper. If you want to strip off all wax and give a solid base for the new clear, water sand the old clear coat with #600 (don't lean on the edges, you don't want to remove color coat)and then dry completely. Wipe with a tack rag and fire away with the epoxy clear coat.

Use dish or any detergent like Dawn that removes grease. Be sure to rinse it off good as it will leave a film otherwise. Strips the wax build-up good. Then do your thing and give it a good wax after you are done. Remember to let any paint dry for a few weeks before putting a good wax job on it. Don't use a wax/cleaner...it will leave scratches-cleaner part has abrasives. Use pure carnuba wax for protection and true wax shine.

I have a tank with Duplicolor enamel clear on it. spilled gas several times and no damage. came from auto parts store

lacquer can't handle gas at all

I know you dont want to hear this, but, 4 times, dude, buy a paint gun, cheap harbor freight HVLP works great, I have it and the high dollar ingersol, and the cheap gun shoots just as good.
then spend 100 bucks on automotive paint, you will not be doing it again due to gas

Here is a tip,

2 ways to prevent gas spillage on your tank:

1) plug the nossel hole with your gloved finger until the nosel is in the tank. Do the opposite upon removal.

2)Screw your gas cap ghasket to the left to provide a tighter seal, just 2 revolutions works well without restricting air flow.

ronjones wrote:

same thing recently happened to mine. I tried compound and it helped some. It doesn't look as if it got to the paint, so I've rewaxed. Maybe I'll hit it w/the compound a couple of more times. I'll probably wait until winter and go at it w/1500 and reclearcoat...if I don't just strip and redo in another color.

Update to the above post:
I got tired of looking at the left side gas washed tank, and figured I couldn't make it look any worse. I took some 1200 wet/dry to the side of my tank and very gently sanded out the blemish. I took a couple of times of sanding and wiping but pretty much removed it w/o going into the color. I then hit it w/some compound and cleaned it off, real well and dried. Got my PJ1 clear and put a couple of coats. It hasn't totally cured yet, I've got a bit of peel, but I think it's gonna work out ok once I compound it again. Hey, it ain't perfect but it will do, until I redo the whole tank, and looks a lot better than it did:).

BSKZ650 wrote:

I know you dont want to hear this, but, 4 times, dude, buy a paint gun, cheap harbor freight HVLP works great, I have it and the high dollar ingersol, and the cheap gun shoots just as good.
then spend 100 bucks on automotive paint, you will not be doing it again due to gas

yes! and the gun shoots WAYYY better than any crappy spray can. you will have a much nicer job. it's totally worth it if u plan to keep the bike